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Paris:


Buttes Chaumont (19ème)

Little Chinatown provides the finest budget dining in the ethnically diverse 19 ème . Chinese, Malaysian, Thai, and Vietnamese restaurants cluster along rue de Belleville (Belleville). Greek sandwich shops and fast food joints line avenue Jean Jaurès and rue de Crimée. Hands down, Parc des Buttes-Chaumont is the winning spot for a picnic.

  • Ay, Caramba!, 59 rue de Mouzaïa, 19 ème (☎01 42 41 23 80; http://restaurant-aycaramba.com). Pré-St-Gervais. A bright, yellow establishment in a drab, residential neighborhood, this Tex-Mex restaurant transforms chic Parisan dining into a home-grown fiesta. Patrons salsa to live latino singers F-Sa nights. Mariachi and Mexican ballet performances. 3-course menu comes with coffee, wine, and additional beverage (€35). Pricey but generous fajitas and tacos (€18). Margaritas €7. Nachos rancheros €7. Open Su noon-3pm and 7:30pm-midnight, Tu-Th 7:30pm-midnight, F-Sa noon-3pm and 7:30pm-midnight. AmEx/MC/V.
  • Lao Siam, 49 rue de Belleville, 19 ème (☎01 40 40 09 68). Belleville. While nominally cheap, most dishes (€7-10) sneak a few more euros from your wallet by charging separately for rice (€2.20). The Thai-dried calamari salad (€6.30) makes for a light preamble to the filet du poisson with “hip-hop” sauce (€8.80) or poulet aux pousses de bamboo au lait de coco (chicken and bamboo in coconut curry sauce; €8.50). Open daily noon-3pm and 7-11pm. MC/V over €16.

Cafes

  • La Kaskad’ Café, 2 pl. Armand-Carrel, 19 ème (☎01 40 40 08 10). Laumière. To the left of the mairie, La Kaskad’ has a wonderful terrace, perfect for relaxing on after a morning strolling the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. Varied, delicious cuisine includes iced coffees and tea (€6). Large salads €13.50-14.50. Dessert €7.50. Coffee €2.50. Open daily 7:30am-midnight. MC/V.

Speciality Shops And Markets

  • La Boulangerie par Véronique Mauclerc, 83 rue de Crimée, 19 ème (☎01 42 40 64 55). Laumière. Baking its divine bread in one of only four remaining wood-fired ovens in France, Mlle Mauclerc insists on using organic ingredients in her creations. This tiny boulangerie also serves Paris’s cheapest Su brunch—for €11, gourmands can sample the numerous in-house breads, pastries and jam, washed down by fresh OJ and coffee or hot chocolate. Pastries like the highly recommended blueberry crumble, €3-4. Croissant €1.15. Baguette €1.25. Open M and Th-Su 8am-8pm. MC/V over €15.
  • Belleville Outdoor Market, 19 ème & 20 ème . Belleville. Not for the faint of heart, this Middle-Eastern influenced market provides an exhilarating experience. Belts, produce, sneakers, spices, and everything else you can imagine squeeze onto several blocks along bd. de Belleville. It’s best to know what you’re coming for; vendors behind the tables bellow at anyone who walks by, bewildering browsers. This is undeniably the place to find dates and figs, but beware of pickpockets. Open Tu and F 7am-2pm.


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