Paris Belleville And Père Lachaise (20ème)

Belleville doesn't compare to the 19ème in terms of food quality. It would behoove you to to hop on the Metro for lunch after your cemetery visit.

La Bolée Belgrand, 19 rue Belgrand (☎01 43 64 04 03), Across the street from the Gambetta metro exit, La Bolée Belgrand is a modest creperie boasting American portions. A local crowd people watch through lace curtains and from outdoor tables while enjoying heaping crepes and galettes. The La Totale, with cheese, eggs, tomatoes, onions, mushrooms, ham, bacon and salad, is a particular favorite. 10% off takeout. Open Tu-Sa noon-2:30pm and 7-10:30pm. Takes credit cards. Has outdoor seating.
La Mer à Boire, 1-3 rue des Envierges (☎01 43 58 29 43; la.meraboire.com), A three-, or, if you like a good view, four-in-one. This multi-purpose cafe/bar across from Parc de Belleville offers a spectacular view of Paris. Soak up the teenage revelry (accompanied by its unmistakeable scent) across the street. Or check out the venue's occasional contemporary art exhibits and live music concerts. Simple tasty food is perfect for those “petits faims,” or small hungers, but won't suffice for a full meal. Hosts art exhibits and occasional concerts. Snacks €5-10. Wine glasses €2.50-7.50. Open M-Sa noon-1am. Kitchen noon-2pm, 7:30-9pm.nightlife Takes credit cards. Serves alcohol.
Le Zéphyr, 1 rue du Jourdain 01 46 36 65 81 A classic brasserie du quartier (neighborhood brasserie), Le Zéphyr offers a perfect example of the 20ème's diverse population and relaxed vibe. The cafe's terrace looks out on the grand intersection of rue de Rigoles and rue du Jourdain; not grand in terms of exciting, but more in terms of strangely large. Food is only an option at lunchtime, but it's fresh, tasty, and reasonable as far as sit-down meals go. Takes credit cards. Serves alcohol.

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