Paris Bastille

There are few monumental ones that still exist in this neighborhood, aside from the place de la Bastille. Still, the symbolic historical value of the arrondissement remains, and the lively neighborhood provides many of its own contemporary diversions. The 12ème boasts giant monoliths of modern architecture, like the Opéra Bastille and the Palais Omnisports. Most of the construction is commercial, fitting the working-class background of the area, but a bit of old-fashioned charm can be seen in the funky Viaduc des Arts near the Bastille. There are generally more hospitals than museums in the neighborhood, but in October 2007 the arrondissement welcomed a new museum, the Cité Nationale de l'Histoire de l'Immigration, which is a must-see if only for its present relevance. It is housed in the Palais de la Porte Dorée along with the aquarium; if you make it there, hop on over to the nearby Bois de Vincennes for the impressive château and grounds.

Malhia Kent, 19 av. Daumesnil (☎01 53 44 76 76; www.malhia.com), Fulfilling every Project Runway fantasy, this workshop gives an up-close, behind-the-scenes look at fashion. Artisans weave gorgeously intricate fabrics that become haute couture for houses like Dior and Chanel. Also gives you a chance to buy clothing—mostly jackets and blazers—before a label is attached and the price skyrockets. Gare de Lyon. Usually €75-300. Open M-F 9am-7pm.
Bastille Prison, On the day of the “storm,” the Revolutionary militants, having ransacked the Invalides for weapons, turned to the Bastille for munitions. Surrounded by an armed rabble, too short on food to entertain the luxury of a siege, and unsure of the loyalty of the Swiss mercenaries who defended the prison, the Bastille's governor surrendered. His head was severed with a pocket knife and paraded through the streets on a pike. Despite the gruesome details, the storming of the Bastille has come to symbolize the triumph of liberty over tyranny. Its first anniversary was cause for great celebration in revolutionary Paris. Since the late 19th century, July 14 has been the official state holiday of the French Republic. It is a time of glorious firework displays and copious amounts of alcohol, with festivities concentrated in the pl. de la Bastille. Bastille.
July ColumnTOWER, Towering above the the always-busy place de la Bastille, this light-catching column commemorates a group of French freedom fighters--though, somewhat illogically, not those who stormed the Bastille. Topped by the conspicuous gold cupid with the shiny bum, the pillar was erected by King Louis-Philippe in 1831 to pay hommage to Republicans who had died in the Trois Glorieuses, three-days of street fighting that engulfed Paris in July of 1830. Victims of the Revolution of 1848 were subsequently buried here, along with two mummified Egyptian pharaohs (we're not sure what their involvement was). The column is closed the public. Bastille. In the center of pl. de la Bastille.
Place de la Bastille, This bustling intersection is where the Bastille Prison housed many a criminal before the “Storming of Bastille” and its subsequent physical deterioration during the French Revolution. The Revolutionaries wiped out all traces of the history they made. Though the revolutionary spirit has been largely lost, today a similar fervor manifests itself nightly in fits of drunken revelry, most marked on Bastille Day. At the center of the square is a monument of winged Mercury holding a torch of freedom, symbolizing France's movement toward democracy.
Opéra de Bastille, 130 rue de Lyon 08 92 89 90 90 (www.operadeparis.fr), President Mitterand made a bold move when he plunked the Opéra Bastille down in this working-class neighborhood, though the Opéra did later employ almost 1000 people. The largest theater in the world, the building was engineered by Uruguayan architect Carlos Ott, and opened on July 14, 1989 (the bicentennial of the Revolution) amidst some very Parisian protests over its unattractive and overall clunky design. The “People's Opera” has been not so fondly referred to as ugly, an airport, and a huge toilet, due to its uncanny resemblance to the coin-operated pissoirs on the streets of Paris. Yet the opera has not struck a completely sour note and has helped renew local interest in the arts. The guided tour offers a behind-the-scenes view of the colossal theater. The immense granite and glass auditorium, which seats 2703, comprises only 5% of the building's surface area. The rest of the building houses exact replicas of the stage (for rehearsal purposes) and workshops for b Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access.
Cité Nationale de l'Histoire de l'Immigration, 293 Ave. Daumesnil (☎01 53 59 58 60; www.histoire-immigration.fr), It is both appropriate and ironic that the recently opened museum on immigration is housed in the Palais de la Porte Dorée, which was built during France's colonial expansion and thus features not-so-politically-correct friezes of “native culture” (read: savages) on its outside walls. The museum inside, however, is a much-needed and much-anticipated commemoration of the tumultuous history of immigration in France, an issue that remains heated today. Presented chronologically, the permanent collection traces the arrival and subsequent attempts at integration of immigrants in France, from 1830 to today. Videos, testimonials, photos, and factual displays provide a surprisingly balanced account of both France's experience and the experiences of the immigrants themselves. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access.
Rue de la Roquette, Though a bit quieter than its neighbor, the ever bubbling Rue de Lappe, but still lively, this winding street has some unostentatious treasures. The 17th-century byway was once home to poet Paul Verlaine, who lived at no. 17. The street is now lined with off-beat cafes, bars, independent boutiques, an avant-garde church, and countless restaurants serving everything from Italian to Thai food. The charming Sq. de la Roquette is an ideal way to end a stroll along this multi-faceted street.
La Galerie Akié Arichi, 26 rue Keller 09 51 46 51 14 (galeriearichi.com), A small gallery committed to the work of international artists, many of whom employ nails, silkscreen, and other industrial methods. The gallery's little dog is as friendly as the owner. Takes credit cards.
Viaduc Des Arts and Promenade Plantée, 9-129 Ave. Daumesnil 01 44 75 80 66 (www.viaducdesarts.fr), Paris's swankier artists have set up shop under the heavy archways of the Viaduc des Arts, a former old railway viaduct and current hive of creative activity. The buildings numerous ateliers (studios) house artisans who make everything from haute couture fabric to hand-painted porcelain to futuristic furniture. Restorators of all kinds are parked here as well; bring your oil painting, 12th-century book, grandmother's linen, or childhood dollhouse, and they'll return it good as new. Interspersed among the stores are gallery spaces, many of which are rented by a new artist each month. As of this writing, Jean Paul Gautier's gallery is located at no. 30 Rue du Faubourg St-Antoine. High above the avenue, on the “roof” of the viaduct, runs the lovely Promenade Plantée, which is decorated with rose covered gazebos. It's an ideal spot in Paris for a Sunday afternoon run or stroll.
Art Up Deco, 39-41 Ave. Dumesnil (☎01 46 28 80 23; www.artupdeco.com), A gallery designed for amateur collectors, the pieces here comes in standardized sizes, and are stacked against each other warehouse style (€60-1500). Over 100 contemporary artists show pieces here, improving chances that the work of a future master will catch your eye. Takes credit cards.
Ithemba, 67 Ave. Daumesnil (☎01 44 75 88 88; www.ithemba.fr), A colorful, funky showroom filled with sparkling beads and light bulbs, Ithemba has upped its street cred since 2003 and committed itself to the fight against HIV/AIDS in Africa. Over 60 artists design lightbulbs and shades, which are then handmade by HIV/AIDS victims in South Africa and Swaziland, then shipped back to Paris and sold here. Takes credit cards.
Aquarium Tropical, 293 Ave. Daumesnil (☎01 44 74 84 80; www.aquarium-portedoree.fr), This tropical aquarium was originally conceived as part of the 1931 Colonial Exposition to display exotic fauna from the French colonies. Now it simply celebrates animal diversity, and showcases over 5000 creatures representing 300 species from all over the world. The hands-down highlight is the perpetually dozing alligators of all sizes. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access.
Bercy Quarter, The Bercy Quarter is renowned for its clunky, bureaucratic buildings, beginning with the Mitterrand's Ministère des Finances building, a modern monolith to match the similarly block-like Bibliothèque across the river. Any of the many new cafes and brasseries along the rue de Bercy offer a great view of the mammoth grass-and-glass Palais Omnisports concert and sports complex. Each of its sloping sides is covered in green grass; local youth and the occasional tourist periodically try to climb up, but we've never seen someone do it successfully. The Parc de Bercy is not quite the tranquil getaway some visitors may seek, but it's still a popular hangout for locals. A lovelier site is the Yitzhak Rabin Garden at the eastern edges of the park, which offers rose arbors, grape vines, an herb garden, and a playground dedicated to the Nobel Prize-winning Prime Minister of Israel. To top off this bizarre, 21st-century,