Paris Passy And Auteuil (16ème)
With streets named after Theopold Gautier, Benjamin Franklin, George Sand, and other illustrious figures, the 16ème echoes with previous eras of high culture. Remnants of these periods are now housed in the Quarter's many museums. Fans of Last Tango in Paris can wander onto the Bir-Hakeim bridge where scenes were shot, and Honoré de Balzac's devotees can lovingly touch the desk where he wrote. Though packed with tourists, Trocadero and its surroundings feature wonderful views of the Eiffel Tower and boast a bustling center of street art, not to mention the graves of some of Paris's most notable residents.
- Cimitière de Passy, 2 rue du Commandant-Schloesing (☎01 53 70 40 80), Opened in 1820, this cemetery is home to some of Paris's most notable deceased, including the Givenchy family, Claude Debussy, Berthe Morisot, and Edouard Manet. The idiosyncrasies and enduring rivalries of these figures continue even in death; the graves here look more like little mansions than tombstones. The tomb of Russian artist, Marie Bashkirtseff, is a recreation of her studio, and stands at an impressive 40 ft. Morisot and Manet are buried in a more modest tomb together. We suspect that Morisot's husband would not have approved. Well-groomed and quiet, the graveyard is more of a shadowy garden, with a wonderful view of the Eiffel Tower. Free.
- Maison de Balzac, 47 rue Raynouard (☎01 55 74 41 80; www.balzac.paris.fr), When he wasn't sleeping his way through Paris, Honoré de Balzac hid from the world in this three-story house, where he wrote most of La Comédie Humaine. Today, the house features drafts of his most famous work and various paintings, sculptures, and books related to his life. Visitors can also see the heavy-set desk where he worked. If you've never read Balzac, check out the select quotes lining the walls for a quick introduction to his style. If you have no interest at all in this literary figure, benches scattered amongst bushy trees and wireless access make the accompanying garden a beautiful and practical place to sit. Passy, La Muette. Call ahead for guided tours. Permanent collection free. Temporary exhibits €4. Open Tu-Sun 10am-6pm. Last entry 5:30pm. Library open M-F 12:30-5:30pm, Sa 10:30am-5:30pm. Takes credit cards.
- Statue of Liberty, Iles des Cygnes One of the many replicas of the Statue of Liberty worldwide, this Parisian version faces toward the original in New York Harbor. Standing tall on the man-made Ile de Cygnes, the statue can be seen from the Pont Bir-Hakeim where Last Tango in Paris was shot. A peaceful walk down the Allee de Cygnes past runners and lovers will yield a close-up view. Passy. Walk down rue d'Albioni toward the Seine, cross av. du President Kennedy to the Pont Bir-Hakeim. Turn right onto Allee de Cygnes if you want a closer look.
- Place du Trocadero, One of the most bustling hubs in the 16th, Place du Trocadero offers one of the best views of the Eiffel Tower. Street artists dance to a melange of hip-hop and pop, vendors push their wares on foot, and angsty youth mill about with skateboards. The nearby cafe Carette has some of the best hot chocolate in Paris (€7). Trocadero.
- Musée d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris, 11 ave. du President Wilson 01 53 67 40 00 (mam.paris.fr), Though smaller than the Centre Pompidou, the Musee D'art Moderne de la Ville de Paris is less crowded and just as enjoyable. Rooms are organized according to artistic movement, and include Fauvism, Cubism, Realism, and abstraction. Exhibits additionally showcase the works of major figures like Mondrian, Picasso, and Duchamp. Graffiti lines the wall, pulling the museum in a deliberate contemporary artistic discourse. During the summer, the museum cafe opens up to a gorgeous terrace with a river view.
- Musée du Vin, rue des Eaux (☎01 45 25 70 89; www.museeduvinparis.com), Formerly a 15th-century monastery, the Musee du Vin's underground vaults display a number of wine-related objects that the building's devout former residents may not have approved of. Exhibits explain the life cycle of a bottle of wine in great detail. The highlight of the trip is the glass of wine available for purchase at the end of the tour, though you could always save that €10 to buy 10 bottles of your own somewhere else. The adjoining restaurant provides lunch and dinner. Takes credit cards.
- Jardins du Trocadero, The ultimate tourist hub, the gardens provide the perfect “I've been to Paris” photo opp, with one of the clearest views of the Eiffel Tower. The sprawling, sloping lawns and fountain are great for a picnic or watching the many street performers working for your spare change.
- Musée Marmottan Monet, 2 rue Louis Boilly (☎01 44 96 50 33; www.marmottan.com), With paneled floors, high ceilings and large glass windows, the Musée Marmottan Monet feel as airy and light as the landscapes portrayed in the Impressionist paintings it houses. Gold detail, intricate molding, and luxurious furniture recreate the atmosphere of another era. The lowest floor is devoted exclusively to one of the most important collections of Claude Monet's work in the world. The series looks well past the haystacks to his lesser known pieces, and explores the breadth of his oeuvre. Random biographical objects are also on display; Monet's spectacles, tinged green, sit in a glass box, as does one of his many palettes, still colored with dry paint. A number of works by Berthe Morisot, the only well-known female Impressionist painter, also enrich the collection. Open Tu-Su 11am-6pm. Last entry at 5:30pm. Takes credit cards.
- Palais de Tokyo, 13 ave. du President Wilson (☎01 47 23 54 01; www.palaisdetokyo.com), Housing both the Musee d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris as well as the Site de Creation Contemporaine, this neoclassical palace is devoted to art. The west wing is perhaps the trendier side, with arcade games, photo booths, and graphic T-shirts. The Site de Creation Contemporaine showcases some of today's hottest artists. There is also an adjoining restaurant, Tokyo Eat. Takes credit cards.
- Musée de la Mode et du Costume, 10 ave. Pierre, 1er de Serbie, entrance on place Rochambeau (☎01 56 52 86 00), There's no denying it—the French dress to impress. This museum elegantly displays the history of fashion from the 18th to 20th century. With 30,000 outfits, 70,000 accessories, and not much space in which to show them, the museum organizes its exhibits by century and rotates them more swiftly than a Lady Gaga costume change. Takes credit cards.
