The Latin Quarter's alternative to large-scale, conventional museums is its bounty of private galleries, which offer contemporary art displays with enough variety to suit every taste. Rue de Seine and the area north of bd. St-Germain are especially dominated by these little galleries, making for a delightful stroll.
Musée Zadkine. Installed in 1982 in the house and studio of Russian sculptor Ossip Zadkine (1890-1967), the pleasantly tourist-free Musée Zadkine houses a collection of his work, along with moving contemporary art exhibits. Zadkine, who immigrated to Paris in 1909, worked in styles from Primitivism to Neoclassicism to Cubism, and the museum’s collection represents all 12 of his creative periods. The tiny sculpture garden is a wonderful place to recover from time spent in the busy northern part of the 6 ème . (100bis rue d’Assas, 6ème. Vavin. Walk north along rue Vavin and take the third right on rue d’Assas. ☎01 55 42 77 20; www.paris.fr/musees/zadkine. Open Tu-Su 10am-6pm. €4, under 26 €2.)
Musée Delacroix. The Musée Delacroix offers a surprisingly intimate and scholarly perspective on 18th century Romanticist Eugène Delacroix, the artistic master behind the famous Liberty Leading the People (1830). The museum is situated in the refurbished three-room apartment and atelier where Delacroix lived and worked for much of his life. Sketches, watercolors, engravings, and letters to Théophile Gautier and George Sand are part of the permanent holdings, while sporadic traveling exhibits showcase significant achievements in Delacroix scholarship. There is a lovely enclosed garden between the atelier —equipped with Delacroix’s original palettes and studies—and the artist’s private apartment. (6 rue de Furstemberg, 6ème. St-Germain-des-Prés. Behind the Église St-Germain, off rue de l’Abbaye. At the courtyard, follow the sign to the central atelier Delacroix. ☎01 44 41 86 50; www.musee-delacroix.fr. Open M and W-Su 9:30am-5pm; last entry 4:30pm. €5, under 18 free. Free same-day entry with a Louvre ticket. MC/V. )
Musée De La Monnaie. Housed in the Hôtel des Monnaies, a mint until 1973, the Musée de la Monnaie (Currency Museum) is not just for coin collectors. Displays in this small museum document the history of French coinage from Roman times to the present, with everything from medieval coins the size of dinner plates to answers for any question you’ve ever had about the euro. There is also a stellar exhibition of international currencies. The museum occasionally hosts traveling exhibitions on non-pecuniary topics. (11 quai de Conti, 6ème. Pont Neuf. Cross the Pont Neuf and turn right on quai de Conti. ☎01 40 46 55 35; www.monnaideparis.fr. Wheelchair-accessible. Open Tu-F 11am-5:30pm, Sa-Su noon-5:30pm. €5, under 16 free; includes audioguide available in English, French, Spanish, German, and Italian. MC/V.)
North of bd. St-Germain, back-to-back galleries cluster on rue de Seine, rue Mazarine, rue Bonaparte, rue Jacques Callot, rue Dauphine, and rue des Beaux-Arts. Most are marked with colorful “Art of St-Germain des Pres” flags. Posted hours tend to be flexible; most galleries close at lunchtime (usually 1-2:30pm) and on Mondays. In addition, most galleries will offer neighborhood maps giving the locations and information for nearby exhibitions. While all galleries are worth a browse, these are our personal favorites.
Galerie Patrice Trigano. Down the street from the École des Beaux-Arts, Galerie Trigano finds inspiration in the artistic ideals of the 20th century. The works on display may have been created in the last few years, but the abstract and expressionist styles they embody have been around for decades. Don’t forget to check out the basement and the small sculpture garden in the back. (4bis rue des Beaux-Arts, 6ème. ☎01 46 34 15 01. Open Tu-Sa 10am-1pm and 2:30-6:30pm.)
Galerie Loevenbruck. An outstanding gallery, specializing in politically engaged Dada- and Pop-inspired contemporary sculpture, video, photography, and painting—most of it with a sense of humor. Pick up free postcards advertising art events in Paris. (2 rue de l’Echaudé. Enter off rue Jacob, 6ème. ☎01 53 10 85 68; www.loevenbruck.com. Open Tu-Sa 11am-7pm. Closed Aug.)
Kamel Mennour. A hip gallery with a young staff. It exhibits prized work by stars like Annie Leibovitz and Larry Clark, and some of the best photography, video, and painting that the 6 ème ’s up-and-comers have to offer. (60 rue Mazarine, 6ème. ☎01 56 24 03 63; www.galeriemennour.com. Open Tu-Sa 11am-7pm.)
Galerie Seine 51. With one of the flashiest collections of contemporary art on the Left Bank and innovative curatorial projects—including occasional pink walls and astroturf—Seine 51 is an amusing foray into experimental art, with a mischievous feel. Exhibits range from Pop-inspired installations, photography, and furniture to works in standard mediums. (51 rue de Seine, 6ème. ☎01 43 26 91 10; www.seine51.com. Open Tu-Sa 10:30am-1pm and 2:30-7pm.)
Galerie Albert Loeb. Modern art and classy black-and-white photography with a tendency toward social critique are the lifeblood of this stripped-down gallery space. (12 rue des Beaux-Arts, 6ème. ☎ 01 46 33 06 87; www.galerieloeb.com. Open Tu-Sa 10am-1pm and 2-7pm. Closed Aug.)
Galerie Loft. Galerie Loft features expressive and politically oriented Chinese avant-garde art, unlike anything else you’ll find in St-Germain. (3bis, rue des Beaux-Arts, 6ème. Enter the courtyard at no. 3 and climb the stairs. ☎01 46 33 18 90; www.galerieloft.com. Open Tu-Sa 10am-1pm and 2-7pm.)
Claude Bernard. An expansive art space, Claude Bernard is perhaps one the most prestigious galleries of rue des Beaux-Arts. The space holds a mix of traditional photographs and off-the-wall collages and modern art. It has showcased such famous artists as Dubuffet, Balthus, David Levine, and Henri Cartier-Bresson. (7-9, rue des Beaux-Arts, 6ème. ☎01 43 26 97 07; www.claude-bernard.com. Open Tu-Sa 9:30am-12:30pm and 2:30-6:30pm.)
Galerie Di Meo. This gallery specializes in multimedia painting and sculpture, and features a fabulous retinue of neo-Pop and Abstract-Expressionist contemporary artists. (9 rue des Beaux-Arts, 6ème. ☎01 43 54 10 98; www.dimeo.fr. Open Tu-F 10am-1pm and 2:30-7pm, Sa 10am-7pm. Closed Aug.)
Galerie Lelia Mordoch. Superior individual and group shows of Pop- and Minimalist-inspired sculpture, painting, photography, and installation displayed, all with a very clean aesthetic. (50 rue Mazarine, 6ème. ☎01 53 10 88 52; www.galerieleliamordoch.com. Open Tu-Sa 1-7pm.)
Galerie Piece Unique. As the name suggests, this gallery offers a collection of eclectic pieces whose arresting subjects are bound to make for interesting conversation when your mother-in-law decides Thanksgiving should be at your house this year. (4 rue Jacques Callot, 6ème. ☎ 01 43 26 54 58; www.galeriepieceunique.com. Open Tu-F 11am-1pm and 2:30-7pm, Sa 11am-1pm and 2:30-5pm.)
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