Eger Overview

In the 16th century, Eger (EGG-air; pop. 57,000) was the site of Captain István Dobó’s legendary struggles against Ottoman conquest. The spirited cellars of the   Valley of the Beautiful Women lure travelers from Budapest who seek the alleged strengthening powers of Egri Bikavér (Bull’s Blood) wine.

Transportation And Practical Information.  Trains leave from the station on Vasút u. (☎036 31 42 64) for Budapest (2hr.; 21 per day, 4 direct; 2290Ft). Indirect trains run to Budapest via Füzesabony. Trains also go to: Aggtelek (3hr., 8 per day, 2040Ft); Debrecen (3hr., 12 per day, 1710Ft); Szeged (5hr., 12 per day, 3830Ft); Szilvásvárad (1hr., 6 per day., 525Ft). Buses (☎036 51 77 77; www.agriavolan.hu) head from the station on Barkóczy u. to Budapest (2hr., 25-30 per day, 1600Ft). City Taxi (☎036 55 55 55) runs cabs. Dobó tér, the main square, is a 15min. from the train station. Walk straight and turn right on Deák Ferenc út, right on Kossuth Lajos u., and left on Jókai u. To get to the center from the bus station, turn right on Barkóczy u. from terminal #10 and right again at Bródy u. Follow the stairs to end of street, turn right on Széchenyi u., and go left down Érsek u. TourInform is at Bajcsy-Zsilinszky u. 9. (☎036 51 77 15; www.ektf.hu/eger. Open M-F 9am-5pm, Sa 9am-1pm.) Postal Code: 3300.

Accommodations And Food. Private rooms are the best budget option; look for “Zimmer frei” or “szòba eladò” signs, particularly on Almagyar u. and Mekcsey István u. near the castle. Eger Tourist , Knézich K. u. 4, features a gym, restaurant, and swimming pool. (☎036 41 02 33; www.hotelminaret.hu. All rooms with satellite TV. Singles 11,600Ft; doubles 15,900Ft; triples 24,400Ft; quads 28,900Ft. Prices about 2000Ft lower Nov.-Mar. AmEx/MC/V.) From the Valley of the Beautiful Women, follow signs to Tulipan Camping , Szépasszonyvölgy. (☎036 410 580. Open mid-Apr. to mid-Oct. 24hr. Office open daily 8-10am and again 7-8pm. 700Ft per person, 600Ft per tent site. Cash only.)

Széchenyi utca is lined with restaurants. In the Valley of the Beautiful Women, crowds fill the courtyard of Kulacs Csárda Panzió , Széchenyi u. 6, serves mouth-watering desserts. (Ice cream 150Ft. Desserts 350-900Ft. Open daily 9:30am-10pm.)

Sights And Festivals. To sample Eger’s renowned vintage, wander through the web of wine cellars in the Valley of the Beautiful Women (Szépasszonyvölgy). Walk down Széchenyi u. with Eger Cathedral to your right, turn right on Kossuth Lajos u., and left when it dead-ends into Vörösmarty u. Take a right on Király u. and keep walking (25min.). Built into the hillside, the valley contains 200 cellars. Most consist of only a few tables with benches, but each has its own personality; some are hushed while others burst with Hungarian and Gypsy sing-alongs. (Open from 9am, closing times vary; July-Aug. some open until midnight. 0.1L taste 75-150Ft, 1L 350Ft.) In summer, open-air baths offer a break from the sweltering heat. (www.egertermal.hu. Open May-Sept. M-F 6am-7pm, Sa-Su 8am-7pm; Oct.-Apr. daily 9am-7pm. 1100Ft, students 900Ft., seniors 450Ft.) From late July to mid-August, Eger resonates with opera and early court music at the Baroque Festival.

Daytrip From Eger: Baradla Caves. On the Slovak-Hungarian border, Aggtelek National Park is home to more than 1000 caves, including the ever-popular Baradla Cave. Knowledgeable guides lead 1km tours, beginning in an ancient cave where skeletons from the Neolithic period were found. Various events are held in the music hall; calendars of events are available at TourInform (☎036 50 30 00). Services range from 1hr. basic tours (daily 9am,10am, noon, 1, 3, 5, 6pm; low-season daily 10am, 11:30am, 1pm, 3pm; 2100Ft, students 1300Ft.) to 5hr. guided hikes (6000/3600Ft). Arrange longer tours with TourInform. The temperature is 10˚C year-round, so bring a jacket. The caves can be visited as a daytrip from Eger, but you’ll miss the return bus if you take a longer hike. The bus leaves Eger daily at 8:45am and arrives in Aggtelek at 11:25am, returning from the stop across the street at 3pm. From the bus, cross the street and go down the path to the caves; the park entrance is on the right. (☎50 30 00; www.anp.hu. Open daily Apr.-Sept. 8am-6pm; Oct.-Mar. 8am-4pm.)