Lake Balaton Overview

A retreat since Roman times, Lake Balaton drew the European elite in the 19th century, but is now a budget paradise for German/Austrian students.

Siófok. The sheer density of tourist offices reflects Siófok’s popularity with summer vacationers. The Strand is a series of lawns running to the shore; entry is free to some sections, and about 500Ft to others. The largest private beach lies to the right of town as you face the water. (800Ft, children 450Ft. Open M-F 8am-3am.) Bars and clubs line the lakefront. Renegade Pub, Petőfi sétány 3, is a crowded bar and dance club. Dress to impress. (Open June-Aug. daily 8pm-4am.) Join the debauchery at The Palace, 8600 Siófok-Ezüstpart, the always busy (and always crazy) summer hot spot of Lake Balaton. Take the free Palace-bus that runs from the front of the water tower (Víztorony) in the city center. (Bus 1 per hr. from 9pm. ☎84 351 295; www.palace.hu. Open June to early Sept. daily 10pm-5am.) Take a 25min. bus or train ride to Balatonszéplak felsö to reach   Villa Benjamin Youth Hostel , Siófoki u. 9. (☎084 350 704. Free Internet. Singles 3000Ft; doubles 6000Ft; triples 9000Ft; 4- to 6-person apartments 14,000-21,000Ft; 8- to 10-person house 28,000-35,000Ft. Tax 300Ft. 10% HI discount. Cash only.) Balaton Véndegló és Panzió , Kinizsi u. 3, is a conveniently located hotel and restaurant with in-room televisions and A/C. (☎084 31 13 13. 2-person dorms 5000-7600Ft. MC/V.) Trains run to Budapest (2hr., 7 per day, 1250Ft). Buses head to Budapest (1hr., 9 per day, 1480Ft) and Pécs (3hr., 4 per day, 2550Ft). Tourinform, Fő út. at Szabadság tér, is in the water tower opposite the train station. (☎084 315 355; www.tourinform.hu. Open mid-June to mid-Sept. M-Sa 8am-8pm, Sa-Su 9am-6pm; mid-Sept. to mid-June M-F 9am-4pm.)

Keszthely. At the lake’s western tip, Keszthely (KEST-hay), once the playground of the powerful Austro-Hungarian Festetics family, is home to thermal springs. The   Helikon Palace Museum (Helikon Kastélymúzeum) in the Festetics Palace, is a storybook Baroque setting with an immense 90,000-volume library, extravagant chambers, an exotic arms collection, and a porcelain exhibit. From Fő tér, follow Kossuth Lajos u. toward Tourinform (see below) until it becomes Kastély u. (Open July-Aug. daily 9am-6pm., June Tu-Su 9am-5pm, Sept.-May Tu-Su 10am-5pm. 1650Ft, students 800Ft.) The Strand draws crowds drawn to its giant slide, paddle boats, and volleyball nets. From the center, walk down Erzsébet Királyné u. as it curves right into Vörösmarty u., then cut through the park, crossing the train tracks on the other side to get to the beach. (Open mid-May to mid-Sept. daily 8:30am-7pm. 800Ft, children 600Ft. 6:30-7pm free.)

Just past the castle, the new Ambient Hostel , Balaton u. 1/A, serves pizza and pasta in an open courtyard. Though the restaurant is named after the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle, the vittles are genuine Italian masterpieces. (☎83 31 59 89. Pasta 700-1040Ft. Pizza 570-1470Ft. Open daily noon-10pm.)

Trains run to Budapest (3hr.; 13 per day; 2780Ft, reservations 440Ft). Buses run from near the train station to Pécs (4hr., 5 per day, 2320Ft). From the station, take Mártirok u., ending in Kossuth Lajos u., and turn left to reach the main square, Fő tér. Tourinform, Kossuth Lajos u. 28, has free maps and checks for room availability. (☎83 31 41 44. Open daily 9am-7pm.)

Tihany. Scenic hikes, charming cottages, and panoramic views grace the Tihany Peninsula. Though slightly creepy, the fascinating Dolls’ Museum, Visszhang u. 4, packs an impressive collection of 19th-century toys into two rooms. (Open Jan.-Sept. daily 9am-7pm, Oct.-Dec. 10am-5pm. 500Ft, students 400Ft.) The Benedictine Abbey (Bencés Apátság) draws over one million visitors annually with its luminous frescoes and gilded Baroque altars. (Open daily Mar.-Oct. 9am-6pm; last entry 5:30pm. 600Ft, students 300Ft.) The well-marked   green line trail runs past the Hermit’s Place (Barátlakások), where the cells and chapel hollowed by 11th-century hermits are still visible. MAHART ferries run to Siófok (1hr.; 6-9 per day; 1200 Ft, students 800Ft). To reach the town from the ferry pier and neighboring Strand, walk underneath the elevated road and follow the Apátság signs up the steep hill to the abbey.