Like a coy mistress, the port city of Tangier (Tanger in French and
Spanish) is at once irritating and alluring. If you’re going to visit, be prepared to
tolerate her whims. Only 14km by ferry from Tarifa, Spain, travelers to Tangier must
navigate the chaotic medina (the old Arab quarter), steer clear of hustlers feigning
hospitality, and confront the tentative suspicion of locals. Put on a brave face, learn to
say Salaam, and Tangier’s allure can redeem its challenges.

While the city used to be famous for its vibrant party life, Tangier is better
known these days for its rich history, art, and culture, in addition to its many cafes and
gorgeous views of the sea. In 1923, the city was declared an “interzone” loosely governed
by the US and eight other European countries. The lack of law enforcement made it a
hotspot for partying heiresses, artists, drug users, spies, and Beat Generation poets.
Since Moroccan independence in 1956, the government has closed down the brothels and clubs
of yesterday in an effort to reclaim Tangier for Moroccans. Today, the city is a growing
commercial center that retains the evidence of its cosmopolitan history.

For confident day trippers from Spain or backpackers traveling into the heart of
Morocco, Tangier is certainly worth a one-day visit. Find a bargain in the medina, sit in
the awe-inspiring garden of the Dar al-Makhzen Museum in the Kasbah (fortress), and drink
a piping hot mint tea at Cafe Paris. If you’re staying the night, catch an evening film at
Cinema Rif and hit up the party at Tangier Inn. And remember: keep your guard up and don’t
get suckered.