Apocalypse Redux

Like the characters in Francis Ford Coppola's movie, travelers to Vietnam can take their own boat trip through the Vietnamese jungle toward the Cambodian border. Outside of Kon Tum, young Bahnar boys of Konkoitu pass the day floating up and down the muddy, lazy Dakbla in their long dugout canoes, bringing goods up from town or sometimes just idling the day away. For 20,000-50,000Ð, they will be more than happy to take Vietnamese travelers along for the ride.

The best place to catch the canoes is on the beach of the Vietnamese village of Konkoitu, which can be reached by motorbike from Kon Tum (20,000-30,000Ð). In the village, the beach is past the village center, to the left. From here you can either head downstream to Kon Tum or upstream, where the mountains of Vietnam close in and the road and cultivated lands fade from the shore. With a bit of imagination, you begin to feel like a modern-day Dr. Livingston.

If travelers to Vietnam take the trip alone, the looming mountains and deserted surroundings can feel a bit ominous, but it's worth it for the rare chance to explore this virgin territory of Vietnam, free of any noise and other people. For running English commentary and a chance to hop out and inspect the surrounding flora and fauna, try a more formal tour arranged through Kon Tum Tourist (US$25-35 for half-day boat and trekking trips).