The Difference Between "Prague" and Prague

It's my second day in Prague and I've already made several acquaintances—most of whom I'll never again see in my life. There's something about the Czechs that gives them the nerve to stop you cold in the street for a quick little chat, be it about cigarettes, watermelon, or the ludicrously slow nature of pedestrian light signals in this city. I love it. Especially because I don't speak a word of Czech and most of the people with whom I've shared these momentary, yet intimate, conversations with have not spoken a word of English; you can imagine the sight of our conversations. I've traveled far and wide throughout Europe, but never have I encountered such overt thirst for human interaction. The key to the story, however, is the fact that I am living on the outskirts of what most tourists think of when they visit "Prague." These conversations of body language and gestures have not occurred on the steps leading up to Prague Castle nor in the winding throngs of Americans on Charles Bridge, nor even along the banks of the Vltava. Prague is a tiny place, but many tourists tend to minimize the poor city to an even smaller diameter, staying close to the castle and venturing away from the Old Town only as far as the adjacent Josefov Jewish neighborhood. If one pushes just a few blocks further, just a few bridges more, one becomes privy to a whole different side of this newly famous tourist trap that quickly begins to feel less like a trap and more like a treasure. Sure, the glorious medieval architecture of the more popular neighborhoods is unbeatable, but if you're looking to escape the inevitably stifling crowds and kitschy souvenir shops, venture past the National Theater toward the railway bridge. The architecture might pale in comparison, but the experience of interacting with real Czechs who actually live in the city will ensure that you get a glimpse of the real Prague, the land of the Bohemians, and not the land of a thousand vacationers.