Carnaval in Cozumel

The first sign of Carnaval in Cozumel is the enormous, busty female statue that takes the stage in the town’s main plaza. As sun sets, people gather in the nearby streets wearing long polyester robes glittering with sequins. The sheen of thier heavily styled hair and makeup is just visible in the twilight. Then, the music starts. Drums, the tinny Latin trumpet, a dose of reggaeton.  

Originally, only men could participate in the parade of costumed dancers; today, all genders and ages dress up and dance on the floats parading through the streets, flashing sequins and tossing candy to the crowd. On the first night, the Master of Ceremonies crowns the King and Queen of Carnaval and their consorts the King and Queen of Alegría.

Cozumel’s extravaganza dates to 1896, when the city imported the traditions of nearby Cuba. The holiday’s name comes from the Latin “carnem levare” to leave off meat, and typically takes places the four days before Lent, acting as a final hurrah before sober days of fasting begin. Timing varies depending on the place. Visitors to the Yucatán in late February and early March can expect to catch at least one festival (if not three or four).