O Capri My Capri

When this greets you daily in Naples:

This is a more-than-welcome change:

Not to say Naples is without its charms—but Capri's charms are in-your-face and totally undeniable. WATER AS BLUE AS A CHLORINATED POOL! NATURAL GROTTOES! SHEER CLIFFS! SUPER RICH PEOPLE'S HOUSES! Well, that last part is less beautiful.

Some things never change, however. There's still plenty of "hurrying up to wait" in Capri, especially for the gorgeous (and famous) Grotta Azzurra—you make the trek, you wait in line, you peek in, but sadly, you can't swim. Still, it's worth the hurrying and waiting, as is all of Capri. You might have to hurry to catch your ferry, and hurry to beat the crowds onto the funicular from the port to Capri proper or to Anacapri by bus, but once there you will have all the time you want to wait—to wait for total, utter, blissful relaxation to ooze its way into your very pores as everywhere you look is beauty, beauty, and more beauty.

Then, of course, it's back to Naples and its trash-filled streets and homemade altars—and frankly, it's this contradiction that lends each it's unique character. So while Capri might be better received in post-voyage slideshows, don't expect Naples to give up its hard-earned place in your heart.

Well, now I'm getting sentimental, because my job is officially done, but it's true—there's something about Italy that worms it's way into you, and I'm perfectly content to let it stay there.

Happy travels, compatriots-in-adventure.