About Will Holub-Moorman

In search of relief from American election coverage, Will is seceding to Vienna, Budapest, and Western Germany this summer. Check out photos from his trip at instagram.com/holubmoorman.
27 07, 2016
  • Ritter Sport

Ritter, Happier, More Productive

Judging from my Twitter feed, most of my friends back home have spent the past month wandering around public parks, dodging real pigeons in search of virtual Pidgeots. Because I've been too cheap to shell out for phone data while in Europe, I've opted for a different (and more delicious) "gotta catch 'em all" mindset: attempting to try each of the 34 flavors of Ritter Sport, Germany's favorite brand of chocolate. [...]

13 07, 2016
  • deer hellbrunn palace fountain

Fountains of Pain

“Oh no, oh no, oh no, watch out! I’m so sorry,” announced our tour guide, more than a little disingenuously. A few dozen of us, huddled in one of the many stone grottos that dot Salzburg’s Hellbrunn Palace, were getting soaked by jets of water that had suddenly spouted from secret spouts in the floors and wall. Several people made a dash for the door. The tour guide laughed and pulled a new [...]

4 07, 2016
  • third man junior zithers

Zithering Heights

Although contemporary folk musicians (most famously Joanna Newsom) have recently revived popular interest in the harp, the zither hasn’t gotten much love. If you’re like me, your only exposure to the zither was a rushed introduction to the autoharp* in elementary school music class. It wasn’t always this way. In nineteenth-century Vienna, the zither was extraordinarily popular, in part due to the public performances of the virtuoso Johann Petzmayer. Responding to this popularity, [...]

30 06, 2016
  • brueghel

The Fight Between Carnival and Lent: Eating Frugally in Vienna’s Naschmarkt

Stretching nearly a mile long, the chaotic assemblage of food stalls and cramped cafés that comprise the centuries-old Naschmarkt in central Vienna can be an olfactory overload for newcomers. The first time I went, the mingling smells of dried fruit and döner kebab made me forget for a second that I wasn’t in Istanbul—until the sight of an enormous Wiener Schnitzel snapped me back to reality. Vendors in the Naschmarkt can sense this [...]

25 06, 2016
  • gyor hungary

Burning Up in the Burnt City

I’ve spent the last day wandering around Győr, a city in northern Hungary that often serves as a weekend getaway for residents of Budapest. I can see why. Győr is a sleepy city, with rows of houses painted in pinks and yellows and a small river (the Raba) easing its way through the center. It’s also a hot one. Like Budapest, Győr (which translates to “burnt city” in Hungarian, a reference to its [...]

20 06, 2016
  • werckmeister walk

Certain Higher Signatures

…so that a long moribund symmetry among this vastness might appear in the lost glance of some higher being, at the center of which, naturally, there would be a miniscule blind spot… —László Krasznahorkai, War and War. It rained in Budapest yesterday, which gave me an excuse to re-watch a favorite movie of mine, the Hungarian director Béla Tarr’s turn-of-the-millennium masterpiece Werckmeister Harmonies. Loosely centered around the arrival of a mysterious and destructive [...]

17 06, 2016
  • goal!

Sing About Us, We’re Winning At Sports

The soccer chant is a peculiar specimen. In the world of club football, supporters’ chants are often tongue-in-cheek and defiant (see Millwall F.C.’s exquisite “No one likes us, we don’t care”), as well as endless in variety and number. National team chants, however, tend to get to the point—repeatedly. U-S-A, U-S-A, U-S-A. A few days after Hungary’s national team beat Austria in their opening match of Euro 2016 (for the uninitiated, a tournament [...]

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