25 06, 2016
  • gyor hungary

Burning Up in the Burnt City

I’ve spent the last day wandering around Győr, a city in northern Hungary that often serves as a weekend getaway for residents of Budapest. I can see why. Győr is a sleepy city, with rows of houses painted in pinks and yellows and a small river (the Raba) easing its way through the center. It’s also a hot one. Like Budapest, Győr (which translates to “burnt city” in Hungarian, a reference to its [...]

20 06, 2016
  • werckmeister walk

Certain Higher Signatures

…so that a long moribund symmetry among this vastness might appear in the lost glance of some higher being, at the center of which, naturally, there would be a miniscule blind spot… —László Krasznahorkai, War and War. It rained in Budapest yesterday, which gave me an excuse to re-watch a favorite movie of mine, the Hungarian director Béla Tarr’s turn-of-the-millennium masterpiece Werckmeister Harmonies. Loosely centered around the arrival of a mysterious and destructive [...]

17 06, 2016
  • goal!

Sing About Us, We’re Winning At Sports

The soccer chant is a peculiar specimen. In the world of club football, supporters’ chants are often tongue-in-cheek and defiant (see Millwall F.C.’s exquisite “No one likes us, we don’t care”), as well as endless in variety and number. National team chants, however, tend to get to the point—repeatedly. U-S-A, U-S-A, U-S-A. A few days after Hungary’s national team beat Austria in their opening match of Euro 2016 (for the uninitiated, a tournament [...]

23 03, 2016
  • Stolpersteins are small, cobblestone-sized memorials for individual victims of Nazism. Dinkelsbühl, Germany

Just look down: the memorial you may never see in Europe

If you ever take the time to look down at the ground, which, if you are like any of others in the Millennial Generation, than you are already looking down at your phone. However, if you take time to look past the latest video of kittens on Facebook, you will see one of the largest and possibly underappreciated art projects in Europe. Stolperstein at Salzstraße 2, Münster The ‘Stolperstein’ is a [...]

11 12, 2015
  • Budapest Red bull

Meanwhile, in Budapest…

While traveling in Budapest this summer, I came across an interesting spectacle: an airplane flying under the Chain Bridge, one of the famous bridges that connect Buda and Pest across the Danube. Now, any New Yorker like me sees a plane flying low and thinks: run. But, it turns out, this flight was totally government-sanctioned! I should mention, there were also hundreds of people gathered along the length of the Danube and giant [...]

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