1 10, 2015
  • Sicily sunset

Sunsets in Sicily

I don’t think it really matters. If you’re somewhere in Sicily between the hours of 8 and 9 pm, you’re going to see a pretty incredible sunset. I’m still waiting for that “green flash” everyone always talks about (I’m skeptical) but this sun-atmosphere combo has figured out how to produce just about every other color in the Crayola box. Deep, dark indigo rules the upper airs and slowly fades to a wispy [...]

26 09, 2015
  • Italian Trains Let's go

Notes From Italian Trains

As I was scrawling out a rough draft of this blog on the penultimate train ride of my route – a four-hour Sicilian coastal jaunt from Palermo to Taormina – the topic changed. Originally I was going to go for a snarky little column about the dirth of snack bars and the lackluster air conditioning on these things. It’s only really “conditioning” in the sense that if you were to go to [...]

19 09, 2015
  • Italy Palermo

Wedding Crashers: Palermo Edition

A few days into my stint in Palermo, I strolled into the tell-it-like-it-is named “Church of Jesus.” The overload of stucco reliefs, red and white marble, and shiny gold crap everywhere was enough to spin me into a tizzy of Sicilian baroque-ness. There was even a red carpet rolled out down the center aisle. “Nice touch, guys.” “Wait, why is there a red carpet in a church? Oh, sheesh, I’ve walked [...]

13 09, 2015
  • trenitalia let's go

Trenitalia 101: 3 Tips for Mastering Italy’s Trains

It’s not hard to train to be a Trenitalia master. That pun was begging for it. But if you’re traveling through mainland Italy and need to get from one city to another (it happens sometimes), Trenitalia will be your new best friend—you know, aside from your copy of Let's Go Italy. It just takes a little getting used to. So after kilometers upon kilometers spent on these kinda comfortable, air conditioned trains, I [...]

12 09, 2015
  • Amalfi Coast Let's go

5 Ways to Avoid Going Bankrupt on the Amalfi Coast

On the Amalfi Coast, the only thing grander than the view is the pricetag. 1) Bring your own umbrella. No one does this, but I’m thinking it’s going to be the next big thing. Open up that umbrella you brought like it’s raining cats and dogs and bury the handle in your own little patch of sand. Voila, free shade. Money saved: 7 Euros. 2) Game the gelato system. There may be [...]

6 09, 2015
  • rimini let's go

Rimini: The Ibiza of Italy

Real talk—I had no idea what Rimini was before I saw it on the list of places I had to go. And I didn't really pay much attention to it until about a week before I had to go there. Then like any sensible researcher, I pulled out an old copy of Let's Go Italy, flipped to Rimini, skipped past all the intros and went straight to the good stuff: the museums! [...]

5 09, 2015
  • Naples Virgil

Naples: A Visit to Virgil’s Tomb

I am part of a smallish, eccentric, and some would say rather confused cohort of individuals that willingly partakes in the study of Latin. Virgil, to me, is a little bit like an old friend. Granted, it’s a one-way friendship, and it’s more of an “I’ll follow you on Twitter but I totally understand if you don’t follow me back” type of thing than a real “chummy” relationship – he kicked [...]

1 09, 2015
  • arancina bomba

Arancina Bomba

Hungry? If you answered yes, then you're not ready. You should probably answer with an "oh my fucking god give me some food." Then maybe you're ready for the arancina bomba. My hostel owner told me about Bar Touring. He told me they had enormous arancina that tested even the bravest warriors. Um challenge accepted. Known as "la bomba," or the bomb, these mammoth arancine are about half a kilo in weight. Can't [...]

31 08, 2015
  • Italy_Naples_Chiesa+di+Gesu+Nuovo

Naples: Putting on a Facade

A visit to the Chiesa di Gesu Nuovo Venite Adoremus – "Come, let us adore him." It’s a line you can find above the front door to a bunch of churches around here. Not so much at the Chiesa di Gesu Nuovo. I picked up more of a  “stay back or I’ll poke you” vibe from this facade. This church reminds me a whole lot more of Gotham than it does of God. [...]

25 08, 2015
  • Italy Assisi let's go

Two Days in Assisi

That’s not a ton of time, but there’s not a ton of Assisi. The sky was gray on when I arrived at the train station, and I figured it would be best to spend the next few hours checking off as many sights as I could, just in case the imminent rain would stick around through the next day. Turns out I was half-right: rain would not stick around till the [...]

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