Julia's Blog

Julia Ostmann's Blog

Born and raised in the suburbs of Southern California, Julia decided that a fun first backpacking trip would be the Camino de Santiago, a 500 mile pilgrimage across Spain. On foot.
Ensalada Mixta: Eat Responsibly
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This is a story about a girl and her salad. And wine. Lots and lots of wine. Spaniards can legally start drinking at 16, but like 24-hour pharmacies closed on Sundays , rules about alcohol are flexible. Drinking isn't reserved for mealtimes, though. When... Read more
The Spanish Hospitalero: BFF or Frenemy?
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For pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago , the Great and Terrible hospitalero (the "h" is silent and it's not a hospital) can make or break your whole experience. Hospitaleros are former pilgrims who volunteer to run an albergue (pilgrim hostel) for 15... Read more
95 Theses on the Power of the Pilgrim
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To a certain self-described run-of-the-mill snowflake (read the bio): I've got a bone to pick with you. You wrote here on Let's Go that pilgrims in Santiago de Compostela are an obnoxious, holier-than-thou bunch. As a peregrina on the Camino , I feel... Read more
Three Jewels in León's Treasure Chest
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There's lots of nice, normal stuff to do in León, former seat of kings: meander the flower-lined Calle Ancha , see the Gaudí castle (now a bank), or ogle at the stained glass windows in the cathedral. But for the persistent (and poor)... Read more
Burgos: Where Darwin Meets Disneyland
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Burgos, one of the more populated stops on the Camino de Santiago , also happens to contain a four-story temple to Darwin and his ilk. Encased in sleek glass and stark metal with bold red accents, the Museo de la Evolución Humana functions as a... Read more
Siesta So You Can Fiesta
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Between 2 and 5 pm, the country of Spain takes a collective nap. Known as siesta, the roughly three-hour rest can prove most inconvenient for the energetic traveler, as nearly all businesses, restaurants, and tourist attractions close down. Pilgrims (like... Read more
Spain is Turning Me Into a Barfly
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Nothing makes me more rapturous than a bright-red Coca Cola sign or the word "BAR" in neon letters sticking out conspicuously from the side of a building. Bars in Spain are a mix of U.K. pubs and U.S. coffeehouses. That means you can stop by anytime the... Read more
The Best Restaurant in Basque Country
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The best, at least, when you've been hiking the Camino de Santiago all morning. Aching, sweaty, about 10km past the city of Pamplona, I suddenly heard a sound discordant with the silent shrubs and stoic pebbled paths—acoustic music. And then there... Read more

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