Dersaadet Nargile and Cafe
*From the southeastern exit of the Fatih Mosque grounds, turn left and walk for 3 blocks. Turn right onto Atpazarı Meydanı. Dersaadet is on the right. No English spoken. Nargile 10TL. Tea 1TL. Open daily 10am-2am.
Asmali Sohbet Cay Evi
*To the right of the exit from the mosque complex’s northern gate. Or, from the Fatih bus stop, walk north on Fevzi Pasa Cad. to the end of the mosque walls. Turn right onto Islambol Cad., then left onto Fatih Cad., right onto Feraizci Cad., and take the 2nd left. No English spoken. Nargile 10TL. Tea 1TL. Open daily 7am-midnight.
Western Fatih Nightlife
*Located toward the end of Güneslibahce Sok. From the Kadıköy ferry terminal, go on Söğütlücesme Cad., and turn right onto Güneslibahce Sok. Tea 2-4TL. Beer 5.50TL. Entrees 8.50-15TL. Open daily 9am-1am.
*Get off the historic tram at the intersection of Cem Sok. and Moda Cad. Go down Moda until the road forks, then take a left. When you see the sea, take another left and continue straight for about 5min. past Moda Teras. Cash only. Tea 1.50TL. Nargile 12.50TL. Food 5-14TL. Open daily 8am-midnight.
*Walk south on Bahariye Cad. and take the 1st right after the Opera House. Then take the 2nd left and walk a block. Arkaoda has an unmarked wooden door right next to Karga. Check the website for performances. Tea 4TL. Beer 6.50TL. Rakı 9TL. Whiskey 14-16TL. Cocktails 14-70TL. Open M-Th 2pm-2am, F-Sa 2pm-4am, Su 2pm-2am. Live music starts around 8pm; DJs start spinning most nights at 10-11pm. www.arkaoda.com
*Walk south on Bahariye Cad. and take the 1st right after (not in front of) the Opera House. Take the 2nd left, walk 1 block, and look for the Hobbit-sized, unmarked wooden door with a raven above it (not the door above the set of stairs) on the right. Free Wi-Fi. Live music Sept-May, but nightly DJs continue through the summer. Tea 4 TL. Beer 7.50-13 TL. Shots 8-13 TL. Cocktails 19-23 TL. Open M-Th 11am-2am, F-Sa 11am-4am, Su 11am-2am. Closes later in the winter. www.karga.com.tr
Istanbul Jazz Center
*From the Ortaköy ferry dock, head inland and take the 1st left. Jazz Center is on the right. Cover varies based on the performer, but is usually 15-50TL. Beer 15TL. Set menu 60-70TL. Entrees 29-37TL. Required to spend 50TL on top of cover. Open M-Sa 7pm-4am. Music 9:30pm-12:30am. Performances less frequent during the summer. www.istanbuljazz.com
*It’s quite a hike up Muallim Naci Cad. from Ortaköy, so you’re better off taking one of the buses that run along the shore to Kurucesme. To get to the cafe from the Kurucesme bus stop, walk in the direction of the Bosphorus Bridge and go down the unmarked steps right before the Macrocenter. i Free Wi-Fi. Beers 12-15TL. Cocktails 25-28TL. Sundaes 14-16TL. Burgers 17-26TL. h Open daily 9am-1am.
*From the Ortaköy bus stop, walk down Muallim Naci Cad. until you see it to the right, just past Reina. Men need female company to enter the club. Reservation required for dinner. No athletic wear or open-toed shoes for men. Cover Sa 50TL; includes 1 drink. Beer 15TL. Cocktails from 25TL. h Restaurant open daily 7-11pm. Club open daily 11pm-4am. www.sortie.com.tr
*From the Ortaköy bus stop, walk down Muallim Naci Cad. Reina is on the right. Men need female company to enter the club. Reservation required for dinner. Dress code is strictly enforced. Cover F-Sa 50TL; includes 1 drink. Beer 10TL. Cocktails 30TL. Restaurants open daily 6pm-midnight. Club open daily midnight-4am. www.reina.com.tr
*From the Ortaköy ferry jetty, head inland and take the 1st left; Anjelique is on the left. It’s on a small street in the center of Ortaköy, opposite the Jazz Center and near a Hotel Radisson entrance. Men need female company to enter the club. Reservation required for dinner. Dress code (no athletic wear, no shorts) strictly enforced. Beer 16TL. Cocktails from 35TL. Club open Tu-F midnight-4am. Restaurant open daily 6pm-midnight. www.istanbuldoors.com
*Metro: Taksim. Walk down Sıraselviler Cad. The club is on the left. Beer 16 TL. Vodka 20 TL. Cocktails 16-25 TL. Whiskey 30 TL. Free entry. Very few women allowed in, close friends and lesbian couples only. No straight, transsexual, or bisexual visitors. Open M-Th 10pm-4am, F-Sa 10pm-5am, Su 10pm-4am. www.clubtekyon.com
*Metro: Taksim. Walk to Galatasaray, turn right onto Balık Sok. (after Çiçek Pasajı), take the 2nd right, and then the 1st left. Peyote is on the left. Cover varies. Beer 7TL. Shots 8.50-10TL. Sausages 8TL. Open daily 5pm-3am. Live music starts around 11:30pm; check the website for artists. www.peyote.com.tr
*Metro: Taksim. Walk down İstiklal toward Galatasaray, then turn right at Halkbank. Walk downhill to the end of the street. On the left is a small diner called Güzel Kiraathanesi; Machine’s entrance is the unmarked black door underneath it. The entrance is to the right of the stairs; look down. Cover 10 TL. Beer 10 TL. Whisky 30 TL. Cocktails 30 TL. Vodka 20 TL. Shots 12-50 TL. Couples and ladies only. Open W 11pm-5am, F-Sa 11pm-5am.
*From Metro: Tünel, walk north through the passageway across the street and onto Sofyalı Sok. Walk straight and turn left at Sehbender Sok. Balkon is on the left. Beer 8-10TL. Shots 6-12TL. Desserts 7-8TL. Pizzas 12-16TL. Open M-Th 11am-2am, F-Sa 11am-3am, Su 11am-2am.
Setustu Cay Bahcesi
*Metro: Gülhane. Enter the park and continue on the main road all the way to its back gate, then turn right (uphill) and follow the signs. It will be on your left. Tea 6TL. Turkish coffee 6TL. Potato chips 5TL. Ice cream 6TL. Cash only. Open daily 8am-11pm.
*Metro: Beyazır. Follow the tram tracks in the direction of Hagia Sophia. The entrance to the courtyard is on the left. After you enter, Erenler Nargile is the cafe on the right. Nargile 12TL. Cash only. Open 24hr.
The North Shield
*Metro: Gülhane. Exit the tram in the direction of Sultanahmet. The pub is on the right, at the corner of the intersection. Beer 8-9TL. Rakı 11TL. Buffalo wings 16.50TL. Additional 10% service charge. Open daily 11:30am-2am.
Gülhane Sur Cafe
*Metro: Sultanahmet or Gülhane. Find the small street behind Hagia Sophia and continue down the hill. Tea and coffee 2-6TL. Open daily 10am-1am.