I arrived in Bulgaria's former medieval stronghold, Veliko Tarnovo (pop. 68,000) on a cold and cloudy early evening. After being very uncomfortably cramped on a mini-bus next to a few-too-many locals, I was happy to be let out in town—even if I had no idea where I was. I called my hostel, Hostel Mostel, to request their free pick-up service.
"Just get a taxi to the hostel and we will pay for it. Don’t worry yourself!” a friendly male voice instructed me over the phone.
"Chello, English...haha!” greeted the high-spirited cab driver as Balkan pop oozed out of the sound system. The seven-minute ride to the hostel couldn't have cost more than one euro—a typical Balkan taxi experience.
My travel literature had described Veliko Tarnovo as a picturesque village with traditional Bulgarian homes hanging over the hillsides. I guess I was thinking something along the lines of Positano or maybe Sorrento on the Amalfi Coast, but it was not quite so. While it was still a nice town, Veliko Tarnovo seemed more like the Eastern Europe that I had imagined. Things were in a more extreme state of disarray than in the center of Bucharest or Brasov; fading signs hung haphazardly from paint-chipped brown and white houses. Although Veliko Tarnovo is mentioned briefly in guidebooks, it's still pretty far off the tourism radar, giving it a very authentic Bulgarian ambiance.
I think the fact that everything was written in Cyrillic helped add to the foreign vibe of it all. Boy, was I glad I'd made those Cyrillic flashcards!
One of the highlights of my experience was my stay at Hostel Mostel.
The hostel was a beautiful traditional Bulgarian home which had been completely renovated two years ago. I would venture to say it had a zen-like vibe. Guests could split their leisure time basking in the sun on one of the two flowered terraces, or lounging on an abundance of comfortable Bulgarian cushions in the common area. I shared a very spacious ten-bedroom dorm for only seven euros a night—an additional euro gets you dinner and breakfast. Now that's a deal! The hostel also provided affordable, guided daytrips, and although I didn't have enough time to join, traveler friends gave them rave reviews. A favorite stop was to check out an abandoned communist structure referred to as the UFO (and for good reason).
Sight-seeing is very managable in this small town, which makes it ideal for a familiarizing yourself with Bulgaria. Head over to the artisan street, which forks off of the main road. At the start of this cobblestone path, take note of The Monkey House, a locally famous building designed by Veliko Tarnovo's famous architect, Koljo Fichev. Check out the stone monkey perched ominiously above the door.
Although this street is geared towards tourists, the artisans working away in their shops are genuine. Everyone was there, from the knife-maker to an herb-preparer. I fell in love with the traditional Bulgarian textiles and ceramics, and I even watched an elderly woman put her loom to use in front of my very eyes!
After buying more than you have initially planned (like I did), take a coffee break at The Rooster, which you will find on your right. They serve traditional Bulgarian coffee, which is similar to Turkish coffee but heated over sand, as the sign "Coffee on Sand" indicates. Be sure to sit at the traditional low-to-the-ground Bulgarian tables outside—you might feel a bit like Alice in Wonderland, but trust me, you'll like it.
Make sure you allow at least an hour to visit Veliko Tarnovo's pride and joy, the Tsavarets Fortress. This massive medieval complex was the Bulgarian stronghold from the 12th century until the late 14th century. In 1393, it was besieged and destroyed by Ottoman forces. Fortunately, some buildings were partially rebuilt during the communist years. Entrance is just 3 lev (~$2) for students. Watch your step when taking pictures on Execution Rock!
On some evenings, when the sun goes down (there doesn't seem to be a set schedule), a complex light show illuminates the fortress in a whirl of green lasers and colored hues—not what you'd expect for a Bulgarian village, right?
At the end of the night, grab a Bulgarian beer at Malkia Inter. Street signs basically don't exist in Veliko Tarnovo, but you'll find this quirky bar, with its musical instrument-covered walls, at a fork in the road on your right when you're walking from the town center to the fortress.
So, next time you're looking for somewhere to relax in Bulgaria, skip big dirty Sofia and tacky Varna, and just head on over to Veliko Tarnovo!