Orientation
NOVÉ MĚSTO
Founded by Charles IV in 1348, Nové Město is not exactly “new.” Its historical sights are a bit less known than those of the Old Town, but there’s still a lot to see: the New Town Hall (where the Hussites famously chucked several town councilors out the window), Our Lady of the Snow (a dream cathedral whose construction wasinterrupted by the Hussite Wars), and Saint Wenceslas Statue (where Czechoslovak independence was proclaimed). Less touristy than the Old Town, Nové Město is home to nightlife and affordable restaurants as well as some of the most conveniently located hostels in the entire city. If you’re skeptical of Staré Město’s artificial charms, this is the perfect neighborhood to start searching for more authentic experiences.
The New Town is dominated by two enormous squares. Wenceslas Square (Václavské náměstí), a former horse market, is now occupied by Western-style shops, sausage hawkers, and the equestrian statue of St. Wenceslas, while Charles Square (Karlovo náměstí), a former cattle market, is today covered by a somewhat-unkempt park. Národní třída is a major street thatseparates the Old Town from the New; here you’ll find the impressive National Theater. Fast-food joints litter I.P. Pavlova, a square on the border of Nové Město and Vinohrady.
STARÉ MĚSTO
No matter where you look, Staré Město is postcard material. Historical buildings are beautifully renovated, the pedestrian streets are covered in cobblestone, and churches appear around every corner. The downside? Foreigners flock by the hundreds of thousands, bringing out the ugly side of tourism: high prices, omnipresent tourist traps, and false claims of “authenticity.” It is up to you—with help from Let’s Go—to navigate the line between the beautiful and the fake, but don’t take this task too seriously: after all, elbowing the crowds on Charles Bridge is pretty authentically Prague.
Old Town Square (Staroměstské náměstí) is the heart of Staré Město. Some of Prague’s most famous landmarks—the Astronomical Clock and Church of Our Lady Before Týn—are located here. To the west is the iconic Charles Bridge, while the streets to the east lead to Municipal House and [Náměstí Míru. To the north is Josefov, a small historic Jewish neighborhood completely enveloped by the river and Staré Město. Finally, streets to the south (Melantrichova, Jilská) connect Old Town Sq. with Wenceslas Square and Národní Třída, which mark the beginning of Nové Město. Trams and the Metro don’tgo directly through Staré Město but rather skirt its edges; walking is the preferred mode of transportation.
JOSEFOV
Josefov is a historically Jewish district of Prague whose main attractions are five synagogues and the Old Jewish Cemetery. It may seem surprising that such a district survives in post-WWII Europe—in fact, during the Nazi occupation Hitler demarcated the area as a future museum of the soon-to-be extinct Jewish people. Aside from the surviving synagogues, most of the buildings in the area were demolished in the late 19th century and replaced with Art Nouveau architecture. The area is also famous for its connection to the writer Franz Kafka, who was born nearby, and whose name is now plastered on every other souvenir sold here. The synagogues here are certainly worth a visit, but the neighborhood is also one of the biggest tourist traps in Prague, with over-priced restaurants (think mussels and lobster), high-end fashion boutiques, and souvenir peddlers.
MALÁ STRANA
Malá Strana, literally “Lesser Town,” got the name because of its placement below the castle, but we see nothing “lesser” about it. Squeezed between Prague Castle and the Vltava, and stretching up Petřín Hill, Malá Strana is the stomping ground for more established, better-known artists. The area is full of interesting cafes and bars, and Kampa Island, a riverside park, calls out for you to lie on the grass. The other ace in Malá Strana’s hole is Petřín Hill, the sprawling park that is home to Prague’s fat cousin of the French Eiffel Tower.
To the north, Malá Strana merges smoothly into Hradčany, while to the south you’ll find the neighborhood of Smíchov, best known for its large shopping mall and the Smíchov train station. Malostranské náměstí is Malá Strana’s main square and Újezd is its main street, snaking from north to south along Petřín Park. Malá Strana’s only Metro stop is Malostranská (on the A line), but it can also be conquered on foot or by tram (12, 20, 22).
HRADČANY
A visit to Hradčany is a must—the neighborhood is home to the Prague Castle, which contains such well-known sights as Saint Vitus Cathedral and the Golden Lane. Outside of the castle, don’t miss Strahov Monastery’s collection of natural oddities (the remains of a dodo bird, a narwhal tusk, etc.) and Loreta, one of the most important pilgrimage destinations in the Czech Republic. Most of the surrounding establishments are unabashed tourist traps, but this doesn’t detract from Hradčany’s real charms—sloping cobblestone streets and some of the best panoramic views of Prague. Located just north of Malá Strana and west of Letenské sady, Hradčany is also a good place to start your hike up to Petřín Tower, or your dive down the hill toward Malá Strana’s more affordable establishments. To get to Hradčany, take Metro A to Malostranská and then walk up the hill, or, better yet, take tram 22, which drops you off right above the castle.
ŽIŽKOV
In Žižkov there’s no street that doesn’t slope, no wall safe from graffiti, and no block without a pub or a bar. Known historically as a rough neighborhood, Žižkov also had a reputation as a bohemian (get it?) district, home to such writers as Jaroslav Hašek (author of The Good Soldier Švejk) and Jaroslav Seifert (a Nobel-winning poet). Today, the neighborhood’s symbol is the Žižkov TV Tower, the tallest and ugliest structure in Prague. Though it’s being slowly gentrified, Žižkov remains gritty and bustles with local nightlife.
At the northern border of Žižkov there’s Vítkov Hill and the statue of Jan Žižka, the one-eyed Hussite general for whom the neighborhood is named. To the south Žižkov borders Riegrovy sady and Vinohrady, while to the east it includes two big cemeteries, including New Jewish Cemetery, where Franz Kafka is buried. Trams 5, 9, 11, and 26 are the best way of getting to and from Žižkov, as the nearest Metro station, Jířiho z Poděbrad, is in neighboring Vinohrady.
VINOHRADY
Originally called Královské Vinohrady (Royal Vineyards) to commemorate King Charles IV’s contribution to the founding of local viticulture, this relaxed residential neighborhood is a favorite among expats, students, and Prague’s gay community. Aside from reigning over an abundance of parks and green spaces, Vinohrady is close to the Vyšehrad cultural monument, one of Prague’s best known landmarks. You will also find the Church of Saint Peter and Saint Paul and the Vyšehrad cemetery, where some of the most prominent Czech artists are buried.
The western border of Vinohrady is roughly denoted by[I.P. Pavlova. The neighborhood then stretches east along Vinohradská, all the way to [Želivského. Náměstí Míru is located just a few blocks away from I.P. Pavlova, while Jiřího z Poděbrad is close to Žižkov. Riegrovy sady and Žižkov border Vinohrady to the north and Havlíčkovy sady is to the south. Vyšehrad is a separate district, just one Metro stop southwest of I.P. Pavlova. Walking in Vinohrady is an option, but if you want to save time, you can take advantage of the frequent tram service.
HOLEŠOVICE
Holešovice used to be an industrial suburb, but today, thanks to steady gentrification, it’s turning into one of Prague’s most exciting neighborhoods. The industrial scale of the buildings here has lent itself well to arts spaces like DOX and Veletržní Palác, nightclubs like Cross Club and SaSaZu, and even hostels like Prague Plus Hostel. Home to other sprawling complexes such as the Prague Market, Exhibition Ground, and Letenské sady, Holešovice is the perfect escape from the cramped streets of Staré Město.
Situated north of Staré Město at a bend in the Vltava, Holešovice is split in two by railroad tracks. It’s not as pedestrian-friendly a neighborhood as many others in Prague, so we recommend trams 1, 3, 5, 12, 14, 17, and 25 to get around. The two closest Metro stations are on the C line: Vltavská and Nádraží Holešovice.
DEJVICE
There are few tourist sights in Dejvice and consequently, few tourists. This lively locals-only neighborhood has its own charms, and those spending more than a week or two in Prague should definitely take a walk around. Dejvice is organized around an enormous roundabout (Vítězné náměstí), and, in addition to being home to a university complex and two famous theaters (Divadlo Semafor and Divadlo Spejbla&Hurvínka, both on Dejvická), it has plenty of restaurants that won’t charge you extra for being a foreigner. The neighborhood is close to both Letenské sady and Hradčany. Northwest of Dejvice, the sprawling natural reserve Divoká Šárka is Prague’s best refuge for those tired of cobblestone.
SMÍCHOV
Just across the river from Nové Město and Vyšehrad, Smíchov is not as appealing to tourists as the others—there are no old churches or historical buildings to speak of. Instead, it veers toward the modern: the area around [Anděl is home to the mall Nový Smíchov, a few big bookstores, and two multiplex cinemas. To thesouth, you’ll find Smíchovské nádraží, a train station that serves most Germany-bound trains and that is home to many a sketchy character. There is also some sightseeing to do—including the free contemporary art gallery, MeetFactory and the Staropramen Brewery. Metro B and numerous tram lines go to Smíchov.