Cologne is the fourth largest city in Germany (after Berlin, Hamburg, and Munich), but it feels decidedly provincial. Perhaps it’s the way that its famous cathedral owns all the other buildings in town, or maybe it’s because the locals speak their own funky dialect called Kölsch. Cologne became a major pilgrimage destination in the 12th century, after relics of the Three Wise Men were transferred to its cathedral. Many know “cologne,” thanks to Eau de Cologne, an 18th-century perfume that was all the rage back then, and that makes for the perfect passive-aggres sive gift today. The city center was almost completely razed by bombings during WWII and has since been meticulously reconstructed.

The city never regained the power it once had in the Middle Ages, but that doesn’t mean that it lives in the past. Trade fairs and conventions regularly bring in throngs of businesspeople. The city is home to many art museums, and the nightlife scene stays vibrant thanks to the presence of the University of Cologne (Universität zu Köln), one of Germany’s largest universities. Known as the “Gay Capital of Germany,” Cologne is also the site of an enormous Pride parade every summer, and it’s home to Europe’s largest brothel (12 stories!). Don’t be fooled: Kölsch beer may be served in the smallest glasses you’ll find in Germany, but people here like their life in big gulps.