Orientation
ATHENS
Welcome to Athens. Step out of the clean Metro into Syntagma Sq., a bustling white marble plaza that is the center of the city both literally and symbolically. The transportation hub of Athens, crowded Syntagma is also home to bursts of local culture and political activity. From here, walk a few blocks west toward Plaka, where the iconic Acropolis towers over streets teeming with tourist-friendly tavernas and souvenir shops. This picturesque neighborhood is also home to some of the city’s best eats and low-budget lodging. A walk down charming Adrianou brings you to Monastiraki, which boasts vibrant culture and authentic local flavor, with plenty of sandal shops and Byzantine churches. On the other side of Syntagma, Kolonaki sits content in the knowledge that it’s the poshest and priciest sector of Athens. Designer boutiques, stylish cafes, and wide avenues lined with classy museums characterize this area. Exarhia, by contrast, is the domain of Athens’s hip, young students, and teems with cafes and tavernas serving incredible food at budget-friendly prices. Pagrati is farthest from the city center and is filled with residential streets branching off of Imitou, the central road lined with rows of cafes and bars. Together, all these neighborhoods make up a modern metropolis spread out in the shadow of the most historic and beautiful hilltop citadel of the ancient world.
SYNTAGMA
Syntagma is the literal and symbolic center of Athens, hub of the city’s transportation system and home to the Greek Parliament (Syntagma means “Constitution”). Though it may not be the coolest or hottest neighborhood in Athens, it is one of the most diverse and dynamic, at least during the day. Syntagma is a great place to grab some shade, people-watch, and geta feel for the bustling hive of Athenian life.
The stately, peach-colored Parliament and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier mark the foot of the National Garden, a haven for Athens’s nature-lovers. Looking in the opposite direction, the long stretch of Ermou teems with high fashion shops and skateboarding teenagers. Airport-bound buses leave from the right edge of the square, and the entrance to a Metro station is located across from Parliament on Amalias. Georgiou, Filelinon, and Othonos demarcate the other three sides of the square. Step out of the main square and the neighborhood quiets significantly. Streets wind along, cafe tables sit in wait, and shop owners attempt to lure in customers.
Hotels here (with the exception of John’s Place and a few other hidden budget options) are wicked expensive. The area is not known for its nightlife, and the best places to eat are those that border other neighborhoods (Paradosiako is practically in Plaka and Zonar’s cozies up with Kolonaki). Syntagma is a place to spend a couple ofafternoon hours in between eating, sleeping, and partying in Athens’s other neighborhoods.
PLAKA
Nestled in the middle of the triangle formed by Syntagma Square, Monastiraki Square, and the Acropolis, Plaka is the most touristy area in Athens. But this doesn’t detract at all from the authentic character of the neighborhood. On the contrary, Plaka is one of the prettiest and most charming parts of the city. Narrow cobblestone streets lined with well-kept old buildings give Plaka a distinctly European feel and antique charm. Many streets are pedestrianthoroughfares ideal for shopping and strolling (though, of course, the ubiquitous Athenian motorcycle is allowed passage everywhere). Main roads like Kydathineon and Adrianou are closely packed with cafes, local merchant shops, and tavernas whose owners will try to convince you that they really doserve the best gyro in Greece. Escape them by avoiding the more heavily trafficked areas and heading to the quiet backstreets, where you’ll strike gold at restaurants like Mono and Yiasemi. With low-cost, high-value hostels like Student and Travellers Inn and Athens Backpackers, Plaka is also thebest place in Athens to find budget accommodations.
MONASTIRAKI
Of all the neighborhoods in Athens, Monastiraki is the best place to get a feel for the city’s authentic culture at its liveliest. Nestled between touristy Plaka, central Syntagma, and edgy Psiri, Monastiraki is a maze of crisscrossing streets overflowing with sand-colored buildings and cobblestone roads. The Metro lets out onto Monastiraki Square, a spacious plaza with lots of seating and boxy modern art sculptures that is a popular hangout for locals and tourists alike. Grab some delicious fresh fruit and grilled corn from the vendors lining the side of the square that feeds into the Flea Market. Fashionable Aiolou is full of shops that are nearly as posh as those in Kolonaki, but much more affordable. Athinas Street, the main thoroughfare, will lead you to the Meat Market, where you can get a taste of local butchery. Scattered throughout Monastiraki are ancient Greek and Byzantine gems like Kapnikarea Church and the Kerameikos archaeological site. On the many side streetsbranching out from the square, you’ll find homey tavernas, cheap cafes, and a few noteworthy bars and clubs.
EXARHIA
In 1973, students in Exarhia launched a massive demonstration against the right-wing dictatorship that had ruled since 1967, eventually forcing the generals from power and restoring democracy to Greece. Today, Exarhia retains its powerful youth identity, simultaneously lively and hip and slightly sketchy and smelly. This is the place where you’re most likely to find young nightlife crowds, student-friendly hangouts, lots of nargile (think hookah, you westerners), and some of the tastiest cheap eats in the city. It’s also the place where you’re most likely to encounter streets reeking of urine or find yourself mobbed and catcalled by hollering teenage boys, even in broad daylight. Graffiti is ubiquitous here, and judging from these colorful displays, Exarhia’s motto seems to be a sentence that starts with “F” and ends with “the police.” Don’t get lost in Exarhia’s many side streets at night (it’s helpful to always try to keep track of where you are in relation to the neighborhood’s main roads like Emmanouil Benaki and Themistokleous). But don’t let any of this scare you away. This untamed neighborhood is the best place to catch a glimpse of Athens’s underbelly in all its raw, bohemian glory. Forgetthe pristine polish of Kolonaki and the tourist-catering comforts of Plaka—in many ways, this is the real Athens.
KOLONAKI
Sandwiched between Syntagma Sq. and the base of Lycabettus Hill, Kolonaki is the poshest neighborhood in Athens. Style and culture reign supreme here: the streets abound with stylish cafes and chic shops with skinny window mannequins (and equally slender passersby decked out in similar clothes). Wide avenues, lined with towering trees and pristine pastel buildings, branch off into charming streets where you’ll see Longchamp and Cartier alongside less familiar names like Parmigiani (unrelated to the cheese) and Playboy (unrelated to the bunny). Vas. Sofias and Vasileos Konstantinou are home to stately, well-maintained museums with impressive art collections. You’ll find that some side streets are quiet and shabby, but turn the corner onto Skoufa or Ploutarchou and you’ll once again be in a vibrant world of busy sidewalks and shiny storefronts.
The sun glints more brightly off of Kolonaki’s polished surfaces, so be sure to wear your Chanel sunglasses and your most expensive summer hat. Luckily, the lush gardens and parks that litter the area provide a shaded place to rest your tired feet after trekking around the area’s hilly streets. Because Kolonaki is so incredibly expensive,it’s not a good place to spend the night (and we don’t include any accommodation listings here). Come here instead for a sweet bite to eat at an inexpensive gem like Horiatiko, swanky bar-hopping with a mellow middle-aged crowd, or a little afternoon window shopping (just leave your wallet at home if you don’t want to be tempted). It’s certainly worth stopping by if you want a taste of the most fashionable and fabulous place in Athens.
PAGRATI
Though Pagrati is part of Athens proper, it’s often mistaken for a suburb, and it’s not hard to see why. Pagrati is light on tourists, far from the city center and dominated by residential buildings and local stores. People here are less likely to speak English, and many storefronts and items are likely to be labeled solely in Greek. Language barrier aside, Pagrati has its perks. There is some seriously delicious food here, from traditional souvlaki stops to upscale restaurants, as well as Athens’s entire treasure trove of major American food chains—if you’re into that sort of thing. Pagrati is also home to one of Athens’sfew youth hostels and a handful of other reasonably priced hotels. If you know where to look, nightlife here can be happening and fabulously tourist-free. Main roads like Imitou Street are lined with rows of clone cafe bars selling mediocre, overpriced drinks and snacks, but you’ll find one or twoplaces that stand out.