Naxos is an island where old meets new, beach towns meet mountain villages, and local flavor meets tourist plush. Stepping off the ferry at Naxos Port, the towering ruins of the Temple of Apollo remind you of the island’s past. To the right, a row of tavernas and souvenir shops attest to Naxos’s tourist-friendly present. Farther inland, the dark rock walls of the old fortress of Kastro stand out against white-stucco modern buildings. Walk through Kastro’s winding streets and Venetian archways to get a taste for the island’s rustic charm. Moving away from town, head to the beaches, where children play and adults kick back to enjoy the soft sands and clear water. Try to take a daytrip to Noxos’s picturesque villages like Filoti and Apiranthos, where local culture thrives in the tourist-free mountain air. One of the biggest of the Cyclades, Naxos is also one of the best.