Orientation
THE BELVÁROS, DISTRICT V
You can’t say you’ve conquered Budapest until the Belváros, Budapest’s downtown, has been checked off your list. Keep in mind, though, that this is the most heavily touristed area of the city; restaurants will gladly strip you of all you’ve got and stores will sell you the cheapest, well, garbageat high prices. That being said, this neighborhood’s hostels will give you a lot of bang for your buck in an unbeatable location. Grand Market Hall at the foot of the green Szabadság Bridge is a place for the faint of wallet; rows of freshly baked bread and spicy strung salami create a visceral experience—free of charge. Perhaps the greatest asset this part of town has to offer the penny-pinching backpacker is the walk along the Danube, one street over from Váci utca. Benches line the boardwalk, folk musicians play their accordions in the summmertime, kids run after balls and puppies, and you can experience one of the most beautiful views of Buda and Castle Hill this side of the city.
LIPÓTVÁROS, DISTRICT V AND XIII
Lipótváros includes parts of District V and XIII, beginning after Arany János utca, adjacent to the Belváros, and continuing along the river past Margit Island. This neighborhood boasts the majestic Parliament Building with its Gothic spires, as well as St. Stephen’s mummified hand carefully preserved in the Basilica. Lipótváros also extends into Budapest’s former factory district. Now home to a few dozen giant apartment buildings, the area is one of the few places yet to be refurbished in the city. While not much attracts the average tourist past Margit bridge, the more adventurous will find a few hidden treasures nestled between the towering residential complexes.
ERZSÉBETVÁROS, DISTRICT VII
Named for the beloved wife of Emperor Franz Joseph, Erzsébetváros has been the center of Jewish life in Budapest for over 150 years. Almost entirely destroyed during WWII, the area has been in a state of reconstruction since the late ’80s. “Elizabeth Town” now boasts some of the city’s most beautiful architecture and inviting streets, not to mention to her Great Synagogue and many kosher delis. While the Jewish label remains, unfortunately, many of the area’s once flourishing kosher, family-style restaurants have closed due to economic hardship. Although the mealtime establishments have dwindled, Erzsébetváros still plays host to thecity’s greatest number of ruin pubs, keeping it a bustling and exciting climate during the late night and early morning hours.
TERÉZVÁROS, DISTRICT VI
Perhaps the busiest district of Budapest, Terézváros hosts an international train station, corporate offices, giant supermarkets, import stores, and the most globally diverse selection of dining opportunities you’ll find in the city. The district line begins at Nyugati station and extends eastward to Erzsébet körút and runs north-to-south along Andrássy út from Heroes Square to the State Opera House. The area to the south on and near Hajós utca boasts some of the city’s coolest new ruin pubs, while Liszt Ferenc tér, a few blocks from the Oktogon, offers outstanding budget eateries from Hungarian canteen-style joints to fancier sit-down ordeals. As in most cases, a busier environment means more commotion, and while there’s no reason to fret on an average day, heed the area around the train station for pickpockets, peddlers, and obnoxious drunks—especially at dawn.
JÓZSEFVÁROS, DISTRICT VIII
Don’t be discouraged from visiting Budapest’s eighth district, an area that up until a few years ago was known for its homeless population and dicey sex shops. Józsefváros now has some of the city’s friendliest little parks and squares, a fantastic artist community and the Budapest film school,and the gorgeous National Museum building. You will also be hard-pressed to find a young local who doesn’t recommend the area for its newly polished charm and underground nightlife.
FERENCVÁROS, DISTRICT IX
Similar to the eighth district, Ferencváros is an up-and-coming district with newly renovated Baroque buildings and winding cobblestone streets. The past few years of “city rehabilitation” projects have left the inner half-circle (the area contained between Ferenc körút and the Danube) of the district looking freshly polished, albeit a bit empty. As the renovated areas get prettier, they also become more expensive, forcing previous dwellers to move to communities outside of the boulevard, where delapidated buildings and streets with the homeless are still the norm. The main attraction for tourists in this part of town is Ráday utca, a small pedestrian street lined with restaurants and bars. While it can be an enjoyable place to dine in the evening hours, strict district codes forcing establishments to close their doors at midnight leave the nightlife seeker at a bit of a loss.
THE VÁROSLIGET (CITY PARK)
The City Park is a lush respite from the heat and messy chaos of the city. It’s located behind Heroes’ Square and is the gateway to the freeway roward Eger and other parts in the northeastern corner of the country. While it’s easy to stick to the parks and not spend any money here, it is also very easy to blow all your savings as the area is home to some of the most expensive restaurants in the city, namely the posh Gundel, a restaurant frequented by royalty. If you want to spend the whole day here and are too lazy to walk back toward the Oktogon on Andrássy út for cheaper fare, make great friends with the lángos makers, as fried dough is probably your only bet for budget-friendly gnawing.
VARHEGY, CENTRAL BUDA, AND THE VIZIVAROS
These three adjacent districts are Buda’s most attractive neighborhoods and include Castle Hill, the famous Chain Bridge, and some of the city’s most authentic Hungarian restaurants. It’s easy to spend a whole day perusing the cobblestone streets of Castle Hill, marveling at the view and learning about Hungarian art in the National Gallery. For the adventurous traveler with a day or month pass for city transportation, it is also recommended to take a bus from Margit Bridge, which winds through the Buda hills and behind the castle, for some unofficial sightseeing from the window of the wealthy Rózsadomb neighborhood with itspalatial abodes.
GELLÉRT HEGY (GELLÉRT HILL)
Gellért Hill offers the best view of Pest (and some peripheral views of Buda). If you’re looking to capture impressive, heart-stopping photographs to flaunt, make the trek up here on foot, for a rewarding experience, or on bus, for a relaxed one. There are a few attractions on the hill itself, such as the Liberty Monument commemorating all who have risked their lives for the Hungarian state, but they fail to steal the show. If you’re going to spend more than an hour or two up here, pack sandwiches before you go—anything being sold is triple the price found down the hill.
ÓBUDA
Óbuda is a residential area north of downtown Pest and most attractions in Central Buda. If you’re looking to witness how the layman lives in Budapest, it’s worth a bus ride out and some open-minded wandering. Óbuda’s most intriguing attraction, besides, of course, the magical Roman Aquincum Ruins, is the nation’s largest communist-era apartment building called the Panel (for the panels of concrete with which they are assembled) at Flórián tér. A recent restoration project of this panel to make them a little more humane has left Flórián tér a giant block of apartments painted neon green.
MARGIT-SZIGET (MARGARET ISLAND)
Margaret Island—an oasis of lush greens, expansive parks and a 5km running loop that wraps around the perimeter—is hands-down the most relaxing place in the city. Mostly a summer haunt for locals and tourists seeking respite from the blazing sun and dirty streets, this place offers something akin to Central Park in New York City, but even better as the river rushes past and building views are almost non-existent. It feels as if you’ve stumbled into a rain forest big enough to find your own secret nook.