Orientation
DUBLIN
Dublin’s an easy city to get around, despite its size. The River Liffey draws a natural divide between the north and south sides of the city. The south side is known for its swankier, more ritzy areas, but the north is in no way short on gems. Dividing the two halves further are the different neighborhoods of Dublin. They range from the smallish, touristy area known as Temple Bar to the Grafton Street region to the South Georgian area, to the Viking and medieval section, including Christchurch Cathedral.
Large north-south dividing streets include the major artery on the north side, O’Connell Street (which has pedestrian Henry and Talbot Streets flanking it on either side) and Parliament Street, which provides another street-bridge-street thoroughfare farther inland.
TEMPLE BAR AND THE QUAYS
It’s a bit silly to put an “Orientation” section in for Temple Bar because chances are if you’re in Temple Bar on a weekend, you’ll be so drunk that just making it to the end of the block will seem like a challenge. However, maybe the next morning (or afternoon), when you feel like walking around, take the main east-west street (Temple Bar Street, go figure) and diverge on any of the multiple lanes that run north-south from there. Heading north will take you up towards the River Liffey and the Quays while heading south will take you towards Dame St., Dublin Castle, and Trinity College.
The Quays (pronounced“Keys”) are even more straightforward to navigate. You’ll walk either on the north side (Ormond Quay and Bachelors Walk) or on the south side (Wellington and Merchant’s Quay). Head west to go inland towards the Guinness Storehouse and the Irish Rail Heuston Station, and east towards the ferry terminal and port.
GRAFTON STREET
Ah Grafton Street, pedestrian highway of purchase pleasure. Taking off from the meeting of Suffolk and Nassau Streets, Grafton Street climbs on a slight incline (Let’s Go listings will refer to Grafton directions as being either “up” or “down”) up from Trinity College to St. Stephen’s Green. Small, pedestrian walkways branch off on either side of the street and lead to more shops and, more importantly, several excellent pubs.
Shopping on Grafton Street is not for the faint of heart—or of cash. Several top tier brands have outlets here, and Dublin’s not exactly a pennypincher’s paradise. However, there are some gems that won’t rob you of all the money you saved to get from Dublin to Prague. Check out the clothing listings for more detail there.
Even if you’re not buying, Grafton Street is a place you don’t want to miss. Window shopping here is made more enjoyable by the presence of a hodge-podge collection of street performers, who busk from dawn until (yes, we said it), dusk. Visit during the weekend to catch some great acts.
GARDINER STREET AND CUSTOMS HOUSE
Dublin City Council might as well just get it over with and rename Gardiner Street “Hostel Row.” The place is littered with them. The street runs north to south parallel to O’Connell Street, and the easiest way to get there is to take the pedestrian North Earl Street from O’Connell (you’ll know you’re going in the right direction if you pass by the statue of James Joyce) and follow it as it turns into Talbot Street, which is only partially a pedestrian street. After Marlborough Street, the next cross street will be Gardiner. Turn left or right, you won’t escape the endless stream of signs offering you free Wi-Fi, full Irish breakfasts, and clean sheets. That last one’s a priority, so make sure to ask.
WEST OF TEMPLE BAR
When you’ve had enough of Temple Bar’s late night shenanigans and Grafton Street’s lost its charm (read: when your credit card maxes out), head west. Like the cowboys of old, strike out for gold and adventure. Follow the northern side of the Liffey west and along the quays until you reach Bow Street on the Arran Quay. Turn right and walk a few blocks up—Eureka! Gold! Liquid gold Jameson whiskey at the distillery tour!
Now that you’re rich, take Lord Edward Street west through nearly all of its changes—High Street, Cornmarket, and Thomas Streets, but it’s worth it to turn left on to Crane Street, enter the Guinness Storehouse, scale the stairs (or take the elevator if you find yourself exceptionally parched) to the Gravity Bar, where you may survey the long, dusty trail you blazed. Accept your pint of Guinness gladly, and feel the rich rewards that accompany the neighborhoods west of Temple Bar.
All banter aside, the area west of Temple Bar constitutes a huge portion of Dublin. Phoenix park sits on its inland edge, and a walk there from the city center would take up a significant portion of your day. However, there are several great things to see along the way. On the south side, Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia, and the Irish Museum of Modern Art; on the left, in contrast, is the impressive architecture of the Four Courts and the National Museum of Decorative Arts and Military History, housed at Collins Barracks. Don’t be afeared o’ heading out into the sunset and making a day out of enjoying a part of Dublin that all your lazy friends will never get to.
NORTH OF O’CONNELL STREET
Past the O’Connell Monument, with it’s bullet-riddled Victory, past the spire, that unequivocal proof that absurdly phallic sculpture is not dead, and finally, past the Parnell Monument, which, uh, well...so we can’t think of a joke for that one. It’s there anyway and you’re past it. Past all of these things you’ll find a neighborhood caught in a strange limbo—somewhere between being too close to the city center to really be residential, but not far enough away to escape all of downtown Dublin’s hustle-and-bustle. The result is an area with smaller and more local shops, and a much smaller percentage of tourists on the sidewalk. There are things to see up here—the Gardens of Remembrance are worth a look, and the Hugh Lane Gallery might just beat out the Irish Museum of Modern Art in terms of scale and presentation. And of course, for all the Joyceans in the audience, the James Joyce Centre is just up the road on North Great George’s Street.
DORSET STREET AND DRUMCONDRA
Okay, things to know about Dorset Street. It’s dodgy. Like, not a place you want to take Fluffy for a walk after dark. Located far past the Parnell Monument and running east to west, it has a few hostels and restaurants, but there’s really nothing to see. If you’re thinking about trying to find a place away from the city proper, a much better place is Upper Drumcondra Road. The top of this street, near Griffith Avenue, is a very safe residential area, and the B and Bs in that part of town bring none of the hassle of the city center and have the added benefit of a real neighborhood feel.