Napoleon must have had it made when living in exile here: cool, crystal-clear waters, a lush, mountainous terrain, and a certain intangible Italian charm set this island apart from its tourist-ridden counterpart, the Cinque Terre. I found this island to be a relief from the usual annoyances of the summer tourist season; although swarms of tourists still crowded the pebbly beach, the rest of the island remained mostly untouched. Just minutes after stepping off the hour-long ferry ride to the island, I found myself transported, immersed in narrow, winding streets hemmed with lines of laundry hanging out to dry and topless middle-aged men confidently displaying rather impressive beer bellies. The humble abode of not-so-humble Napoleon is only a short hike away. The architecture of the house blends in so well with its surroundings that my friend and I passed by it on the first go. Looking at the view off the cliff on which Napoleon’s house sits is extremely gratifying, and makes the long journey to the island and up the hill to his house worth the effort.
After the breathtaking views, there is no better reward for the journey to the top of the island than to relax at the beach. I'd encourage staking out your spot early on, because the beach does get rather crowded in the afternoon and evening. Don't be afraid to get territorial. Lay atop the smooth white pebbles, and then take a dip in the clear waters. You'll be able to see not only your own feet, but also the schools of fish that swim close to shore. Most beach-goers find watching the fish reason enough to get their feet wet.
Not far from the beach, one can easily experience the local Italian cuisine; the delicious pizza pies and pasta dishes usually incorporate fresh local seafood. I stumbled upon a local park that offered family-style dining and picnic tables, along with a menu that included everything from plenty of penne pasta dishes to American-style hamburgers and fries. After a long day of exploration, a filling dinner and a cruise ride home on the local ferry hit the spot.