Ask a native of Lucca to compare Florence to his beloved hometown, and he is likely to mutter dismissively about canine excrement. The fiercely proud Lucchesi have every reason to be protective of their little fortified Brigadoon, as it’s everything Florence is not: musical, uncrowded, green, and slow-paced. You can throw away your map here and get lost—the walls will keep you safe as you wander labyrinthine alleys, distinctive piazze, and streets full of bicycling Lucchesi balancing cappuccinos. Those amazingly intact 16th-century walls that hug the city not only provide a gorgeous 4km stroll, but also keep out most cars and two-days-per-country Round-the-Worlders. As the birthplace of Puccini, Lucca is an extremely musical city, with at least one concert every day of the year—your first stop might be at one of the ubiquitous poster kiosks to find out which university choir is touring through town that day. Let’s Go recommends staying at least a night or two in Lucca—you don’t want to miss the walls at sunset.