Orientation
MILAN
On a map, Milan’s city center resembles the web made by a rather loopy spider—it’s a series of concentric circles connected to one another by an erratic array of thin roadways and broad boulevards whose names change as frequently as their direction. The heart of the city is the Duomo, which marks the center of nearly all maps. The city’s tourist and business districts surround four squares: Piazza del Duomo, at the meeting point of V. Orefici, V. Mazzini, and C. Vittorio Emanuele II; Largo Cairoli and Piazza Castello, in front of Castello Sforzesco; Piazza Cordusio, connected to P. Castello by V. Dante and to P. Duomo by V. Orefici; and Piazza San Babila, where C. Vittorio Emanuele II meets V. Monte Napoleone, marking the entrance to the Fashion District. All four squares are stops on the [1 (red), which makes a sweeping “U” through the centro. Past P. San Babila, the name changing begins, as C. Vittorio Emanuele II becomes C. Venezia, shooting to the northeast past the Giardini Pubblici, then becoming C. Buenos Aires and continuing to the pensione (cheap hotel) district near Stazione Centrale, Milan’s primary train station and intercity transit hub. The station is located at the intersection of V. Pirelli, Vle. Doria, and V. Pisani in Piazza Duca d’Aosta. To the west along V. Pirelli is Stazione Porta Garibaldi, another important train terminal, and the Cimitero Monumentale.
For a quick tour of major sights, follow V. Pisani toward the centro as it becomes V. Turati past the US Consulate. Then trace V. Manzoni through the Fashion District and into Piazza della Scala, home of the world’s most famous opera house—the fat lady singing, too. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II connects this square to the Duomo. From the city’s famous landmark, follow V. Orefici to V. Dante and Parco Sempione, one of Milan’s two principal parks (the other is the Giardini Pubblici) and the residence of the 14th-century fortress of the Castello Sforzesco. Southwards from the Duomo, V. Torino leads to the shopping and nightlife strip of Corso di Porta Ticinese and the boozy canals of the Navigli.
PIAZZA DEL DUOMO
Sitting in the heart of downtown centro, the Duomo is the geographical and spiritual center of Milan. It is also the city’s tourist hub, from which many tours make their start. Consequently, this neighborhood is characterized by overpriced chain restaurants and souvenir stalls. Home to a number of museums, it is also a base camp for scammers who surprise unsuspecting foreigners. In P. del Duomo, watch out for those who offer to “give” you a bracelet or “let” you feed the pigeons with their birdseed. In reality, they expect something (namely, moolah) in return. Beneath the plaza, Fermata Duomo is one of the underground’s busiest stations and has a connection between the 1 (red) and 3 (yellow) lines. Northeast of the piazza, international banks and luxury hotels draw a more suited-up crowd. To the northwest along Via Dante is Castello Sforzesco, the city’s other primary tourist attraction. More affordable accommodations can be found along Via Manzini (becoming C. Italia), which stretches to the south. Via Torino heads southwest, linking up with Corso di Porta Ticinese in an area that contains many more authentic restaurants and bars. Except for these main thoroughfares, the street “grid” is more like a deformed spiderweb, with few streets extending in a straight line for more than a few blocks, making a map critical for any successful exploration of this neighborhood.
FASHION DISTRICT
Perhaps not coincidentally, Milan’s most elegant area, once called the Quadrilatero d’Oro, is located right in the middle of everything—all the more convenient for the Bentley chauffeurs and Ferrari-driving executives who have places to be and people to see. From here, the Duomo is to the southwest, the Brera district is to the west, and the Giardini Pubblici is to the northeast. Via Monte Napoleone, a street of brand-name shops with elaborate window displays and equally extravagant price tags, connects Corso Vittorio Emanuele II and Piazza San Babila ([1: San Babila) in the south to Via Manzoni ([3: Montenapoleone), home of Armani, in the north. Branching off from V. Monte Napoleone, the District’s main thoroughfare, several smaller roads lead to the pedestrian-only, cobblestoned Via della Spiga, home to lesser-known names but equally high prices, even in the specialty stores selling silk baby bibs and Italian leather dog collars. V. della Spiga leads to Piazza Cavour and the famous gate that traditionally marked the entrance to the land of wealth within this chichi part of the city.
GIARDINI PUBBLICI
The neighborhoods near Giardini Pubblici connect the Porta Venezia area and the public gardens themselves to Stazione Centrale. Many hotels can be founds near the station and along the main roads of Corso Buenos Aires and Viale Tunisia. V. Torriani leads from the heart of the neighborhood towards the train terminal. The gardens are bordered by Corso Venezia to the east, Via Palestro to the south, Via Manin to the west, and Bastioni di Porta Venezia to the north. Along the streets parallel to the edge of Giardini Pubblici, including V. Castaldi, take your pick of the dozens of quaint cafes and bars that seem to fill every intersection. The area’s primary Metro station, [Porta Venezia, is located on C. Buenos Aires at a maze of traffic and trams that can’t be missed.
CASTELLO SFORZESCO
This part of Milan contains an eclectic mix of neighborhoods and attractions, ranging from a major tourist center and transportation hub to upscale apartments and the artsy neighborhood of Brera. At the center of it all is the castle, which—like the Duomo—is surrounded by hawkers toting their wares to tourists. Largo Cairoli and V. Dante from the Castello to Duomo are full of touristy restaurants with high prices and food that doesn’t merit the cost. To the east is the Brera district with its famous art museum; this area provesespecially appealing to art students who enjoy perusing its vintage shops. To the west, upscale, brand-name stores; high-class residences; and Leonardo’s Last Supper can be found on C. Magenta. To the south, V. Carducci leads to the Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio, while north of the castle is a large park where city dwellers relax and wander on summer days.
NAVIGLI
The Navigli area is a triangle bounded by two waterways, the Naviglio Grande to the northwest and the Naviglio Pavese to the east, though the area’s many bars and restaurants spread a few blocks beyond. The canals meet at P. XXIV Maggio, which is marked by a traffic circle and stone monument. [Porta Genova, the nearest Metro stop, is located a few blocks west of the piazza on V. Vigevano. The picturesque Ripa di Porta Ticinese runs along Naviglio Grande, while Via Ascanio Sforza, Navigli’s main nightlife drag, sits on the east side of Naviglio Pavarese. Many car- and pedestrian-friendly bridges cross the canals, but not at every intersection. Most nightlife hot spots are on V. Ascanio Sforza, north of where it is crossed by the tree-lined V. Liguria/V. Tibaldi, though some restaurants and hotels can be found on V. Ascanio Sforza to the south of the intersection. Beware when crossing this thoroughfare, especially the motorcycle and bus lane in the center that sometimes appears empty just before vehicles round the bend at high speed.
CITY OUTSKIRTS
While it seems at first that most of Milan’s attractions are packed within the city center, many cultural heavyweights and affordable accommodations can be found farther afield. Because of Milan’s extensive Metro and tram system, most outskirts are easily accessible from the centro. Northwards, Corso Garibaldi leads to the lively nightlife street of Corso Como and the vast Cimitero Monumentale, resting place of many Italian luminaries. Northwest of the city is the wealthy Fiera neighborhood, home to Milan’s business expos as well as less affluent residential areas around [Lotto and [QT8. Soccer fans will swoon when they see the San Siro stadium complex, home to Milan’s famous soccer teams. To the southwest, V. Washington has a number of inexpensive hotels and shops. Piazza Buonarotti is packed with cafes, as is Porta Romana to the southeast. More affordable accommodations are east of the city in the mostly residential areas around Corso Independenza. Some areas are seedy, especially near Stazione Centrale, where travelers should be careful walking alone late at night.