In Perugia, there’s plenty to do but not a whole lot to see. The city has an excellent art gallery and lovely Duomo, plus the usual round of incredible panoramic views from ancient city walls, but odds are, if you’re looking for that sort of thing, you’ll end up in Siena first. As pretty as the Tuscan towns but without the big name, Perugia wisely compensated by finding itself two claims to fame wholly unrelated to the Renaissance—chocolate and jazz. During the Eurochocolate festival in October and Umbria Jazz Festival in July, Perugia’s population swells beyond capacity as pilgrims from around Europe descend on the city and completely max out its tourism infrastructure. Even when the festivals aren’t in session, the Perugina factory is ready to satisfy sweet-tooths, and a lively year-round jazz scene should appease improvisation aficionados. The wealth of excellent pubs may exist largely to support the summer’s jazz babies, but fear not! During the winter, Perugia’s many university students are up to the task of keeping the bars full.