Orientation

With one of the highest camera-to-square-inch-of-sidewalk ratios in Rome, the Ancient City doesn’t exactly feel “ancient.” This vast stretch of tourist heaven, whose sights are the reason that many people come to Italy, is a stunning mix of old and new—for every ruin you’ll see (and there are plenty), there’s probably a plastic replica to match. The Via dei Fori Imperiali is the main thoroughfare for ruin-seekers, passing the Colosseum and Roman Forum before reaching Piazza Venezia, where the road ends with the classical pastiche that is the Vittorio Emanuele II Monument. Around the P. Venezia, even more Roman ruins await at Via del Teatro di Marcello, although these are lessfamous (but only moderately less impressive). Via Cavour leads from the Roman Forum to the pleasant Monti area and Esquiline Hill, full of narrow, picturesque streets that aren’t clogged with tourist traps. Perhaps it’s the feeling of time travel as you survey the remains of an extinct civilization (or maybe it’s the mouth-watering aroma of fresh-baked pizza that does it), but tourist travails pale in comparison to the pleasures of the Ancient City.

Nestled between the Tiber River and the grounds of the Villa Borghese, the area around the P. di Spagna is Rome’s answer to 5th Ave., the Champs-Élysées, and the West End. From the Piazza del Popolo, the neighborhood branches off into three main roads: the quieter Via della Ripetta, the overbearing Via del Corso, and the Via del Babuino. The last of these leads to the Spanish Steps. The fashion-obsessedwill love Via dei Condotti, home to the shops of some of the most exclusive Italian designers. Sightseers on a budget will not be disappointed, either, as many landmarks (like the Trevi Fountain) are free to the public. To avoid the capitalist onslaught, take a stroll on the elevated Viale di Trinita dei Monti, which offers the best view of P. di Spagna and its artistic marvels.

The people-to-square-foot ratio is significantly cockeyed in this part of the city: the madhouse of tourists in the Vatican contrasts sharply with the empty boulevards in the surrounding region of Prati. That’s actually a good thing—after forging through crowds to pay a visit to the pope, you’ll be able to wander effortlessly down tree-lined streets visited only by dog walkers and the occasional lost tourist looking for a big dome (a.k.a. Saint Peter’s Basilica). If the plastic souvenirs, brightflags, and English menus aren’t enough to indicate which region you’re in, the brick wall that physically separates Vatican City from Prati should give you a clue. On the Prati side, you’ll find surprisingly affordable hotels and casual trattorias scattered among modern, pastel residential buildings. For all this talk about crowds in Vatican City, even when you make your way back toward the pope’s digs, the throng of people is more manageable than what you’ll find in central Rome. Maybe it’s the gargantuan size of St. Peter’s and its piazza, or perhaps peoples’ religious consciences keeping them away, but somehow the tourist crush is more diluted than you’d expect.

Ask people if they saw the Vatican, the Colosseum, or any other number of famous sights on their last trip to Rome, and they’ll most likely answer no to at least one of them; with so much to take in, something’s got to give. It’s ironic, then, that everyone passes through Termini, as mundane and unromantic as it is. It’s the city’s transportation hub—and it’s got the blocks of hostels to prove it. Instead of a scenic vista or renowned Roman ruins, prepare yourself for a stifling stream of merchants, restaurants, dives, and—did we mention?—hostels. Via Giovanni Giolitti, which runs alongside Termini, and the streets surrounding Piazza Indipendenza are lined with budget accommodations. If you haven’t made a reservation, you can probably find a last-minute budget option here, but even those who plan ahead often pick this bustling spot to be their home away from home. With prime access to the Metro, major bus lines, great nightlife (read: international student mania), and even a few sights of its own, no other part of Rome matches Termini’s convenience. Our only advice: try to arrive by daylight. With a backpack or an unwieldy suitcase, and a long plane ride behind you, trekking through the maze of people and advertisements can provide not only a disheartening first impression of Rome, but a somewhat dangerous one as well.

Located south of the Colosseum, Testaccio and Ostiense are left off most tourist itineraries and are literally off Rome’s central map. [B toward Piramide leads to Piazzale Ostiense, from which radiate a number of large streets: Via Marmorata crosses the river into Trastevere and Via Ostiense is the area’s main thoroughfare. Composed of newer, residential housing and paved streets, these uncongested neighborhoods let you put away the guidebook for an afternoon (though studies have shown that copies of Let’s Go double their lifespan if exposed to ample sunlight, so consider keeping yours out), but make sure to save energy for the pulsing clubs. They may have long lines and be far from the center of Rome, but they offer some of the best nightlife in the city. You might not come here with high expectations, but the culinary, cultural, and clubbing surprises are sure to charm you.