Rising over the surrounding plain, Astorga (pop. 12,000) is the last major stop for Santiago-bound pilgrims before they hit the mountains like a caravan of steamrollers—or of tired pilgrims. Astorga has always been a crossroad: of silver-trading routes during Roman times, of pilgrimage trails during the Middle Ages, and of the A-6 and AP-71 today. The small old city is the renowned home of one of the few Gaudí buildings outside of Cataluña and also boasts a staggering rio of chocolate shops to square feet. In fact, Astorga may be the only city in Spain with more sweets shops than churches, and we bow down to its greatness. Those up to the challenge can try to eat one sugary treat from every store in town. C’mon. Let’s Go double-dog dares you.