“All other cities are doomed, but I imagine that as long as people exist, Constantinople will exist.” —Petrus Gyllius

Istanbul is a city like no other. Compasses here point east and west at the same time. The only city in the world to straddle two continents, Istanbul is the crossroads of all crossroads. This seriously ancient city has survived for more than 2,500 years, during which time it has served as the capital of three empires, been called by at least four names, and been fought over by Greeks and Romans, barbarian tribes and Crusaders, and Byzantines and Ottomans.

The past and the present bump and grind here like they were revelers at one of Beşiktaş’s nightclubs. Lean minarets pierce the sky alongside glittering modern skyscrapers, bearded old men nurse nargiles on street corners, and fanny-packed tourists pay 10 times too much for carpets. Istanbul is a hectic, crazy mix of cultures, styles, smells, and lifestyles, and it can be a challenge for the uninitiated. Luckily, you’ve got us to help you navigate the maze of the Grand Bazaar, find your way onto the right Bosphorus ferry, and choose the best hostel in Beyoğlu. Whether you’re heading to Istanbul to take in the history, study the culture, or enjoy the hedonism, you’re in store for one wild magic-carpet ride. Just remember: if you’ve got a date in Constantinople, they’ll be waiting in Istanbul.