Orientation

Haifa looks nothing like it does on maps. This is largely due to the fact it sits on a large hill, Mount Carmel, and is surrounded by the ocean on three sides. On the peak is the appropriately titled Carmel Center, which revolves around HaNassi Street, home to many of the city’s trendiest bars and restaurants before running farther west to the Baha’i Gardens. One block downhill, Yefe Nof Street runs parallel to this western section, sporting some of the best views of the city—as far as Lebanon on a clear day—from the Louis Promenade.

Below Carmel, things get a little more complicated, as the roads from it zigzag down into the Hadar district. While a sizable Russian and Eastern European community add a cool ethnic vibe to parts of the area, it’s mostly grime and urban banality with a few lackluster sights. HaNevi’im Street and Balfour Street (which turns into Bialik St.) are the main downhill roads, while Herzl Street, cutting across the hill, is the site of most shops and cafes.

HaNevi’im ends on Solel Boneh Square, to the west of which is the Arab neighborhood of Wadi Nisnas. Meanwhile, the downtown area is directly south, sprawling out of Paris Square with Haifa Port toward the sea and the major thoroughfare HaAtzma’ut Road running parallel to the waterfront just inland. Moving west along the coast from downtown will take you to the German Colony, a collection of posh cafes and restaurants almost exclusively centered on Ben-Gurion Blvd. with great views of the Baha’i shrine just above. Continuing further east along the coast, HaAzama’ut Rd. turns into Haganah Road, following the shore through the Stella Maris district with its museums and Elijah’s Cave. Continuing to follow Haganah Rd. all the way to the southern end of the peninsula will bring you to the city’s biggest beaches and Haifa’s main bus station, Hof HaCarmel.