Haifa balances out its concrete jungle and industrial port with sandy beaches and the occasional patch of grass (suck on that, Tel Aviv). Most of these do require a small trek: the beaches skirt the peninsula’s western coast, a bus ride from the city center; the greenery shrouds Mt. Carmel’s western face, where downhill hikes offer stunning panoramas of the Mediterranean and steep hills.
The beach is the place to go in Haifa. On weekends, families, couples, and every bronzed 20-something take to the shores, meaning that—despite the huge expanse of coast—it gets crowded. The summer is also jellyfish season, and the slimy little bastards often take to the shallow waters in droves. Luckily, they’re usually big enough to see and therefore avoid, but it’s good to bring some vinegar to the beach just in case. Peeing on the wound will not work; it does not relieve pain, and you’ll just be broadcasting the fact that you’ve been watching too many Friends re-runs.
With one of the best beaches in the country, Dor is a placid getaway from the urban bustle of Haifa—think transparent waters and nearly white sands. Dor is enough out of the way that it doesn’t get crowded, and the small offshore islands are within easy swimming distance. The one downside? The jellyfish seem to agree that this is a great beach. If stingers really aren’t your style, head to the small peak of Tel Dor, seat of a large archaeological excavation that you can wander through (access from behind through the holiday resort). A 5min. walk to the peak, crowned with expansive Canaanite ruins, will offer you amazing views of the sea and of Caesarea farther down the coast. In the nearby resort, the Hamizgaga Museum (}06 639 0950) showcases a panoply of finds, from 4000-year-old anchors to muskets ditched by Napoleon’s retreating troops. (>Bus #921 (NIS11.30) will take you here from Hof HaCarmel in 20min. Get off at Dor Junction and walk 5km through the sun-scorched vineyards. The walk is flat, but long and totally exposed. Some travelers say hitchhiking is common here, but Let’s Go does not recommend hitchhiking. `Beach NIS10. Museum NIS18. ~Beach open 24hr. Lifeguards on duty daily 8am-5pm. Museum open Su-Th 8:30am-2pm, F 8:30am-1pm, Su 10:30am-3pm.)
The largest and best of Haifa’s shoreline retreats, Hof Dado is technically two beaches. The southern stretch, dubbed “the student beach” by locals, frees itself from lifeguards, amenities, and pretty much anyone over thirty. While it’s certainly one of the more crowded beaches, the profusion of hip music and six-packed teens creates its own decidedly enjoyable atmosphere. Just north, the lifeguards return, bringing with them the small kids and square parents who make up probably the most crowded beach in the city. Public bathrooms and showers are available, as is a small grassy picnic area. (>Directly accessible from Hof HaCarmel, the central bus station. Just leave the station and head for the water. *Lifeguards on duty on northern beach daily 8am-5pm.)
Heading a little upshore from Hof Dado, you’ll reach Hof HaCarmel, where the promenade has exploded into full Western gaudiness—complete with the usual overpriced food stands, towering waterfront hotels, and crowds of families. (>Just north of Hof Dado. Any of the buses heading to Hof HaCarmel bus station goes past.)
Finally, the decidedly tattered—and possibly even grimy—Bat Galim is found in the very north of the city, at the end of a grungy promenade of the same name. Yes, you’ll find some trash, but the breakwaters, free facilities, and growth of cheap eateries help make up for the litter. A small playground reminds you that this is a beach for the kiddies. (>Bus #16 goes along HaAliya HaShniya, which runs almost parallel to the beach 2 blocks over. The final stop, at the cable car station, is at the foot of the promenade.)
If soaking up some sun just isn’t your cup of tea, Haifa is notable for a more adventurous outdoor activity: hiking. Starting just opposite Stella Maris Church, a small gravel path winds down the steep valley of Kokhav Hayam Range. The path leads to a small peak where you’ll find the Sacre Coeur Convent—a cinderblock cylinder with a cross on top—and a pair of dilapidated concrete lookouts with incredible views of the sea below. It’s the perfect place to bring a bottle of wine and a date (or watch someone else with his bottle of wine and his date, if that’s more your style). From the lookout, the path veers north, winding around the hill and through the small forest until it reaches Elijah’s Cave. (>The path is unmarked, and the entrance by Stella Maris is non-descript. Where the road bends, a small concrete plateau is just below the road. The gravel path leads off from it through the trees. The walk takes about 20min. *The downhill path is not maintained and can be steep, so wear good shoes and bring water.) For a longer trail that’s still pretty easygoing, Nahal Siah lazily weaves through the Carmeliya Valley. On the way, you’ll pass the Komotayim (a 1000-year-old cave where monks once took refuge), the El Sik Monastery, and a prim garden. The trail—which takes approximately 1hr.—ends rather solemnly with the massive Sde Yehoshua Cemetery. (>From Carmel Center, follow HaNassi south for 300m. After a bend, you’ll take a right onto Wolfson and then the 2nd left onto Lotus St. The entrance is hidden behind some trees just after the intersection with Argaman St.)