Food

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Shab
OLD CITY
3 al-Attarin St.
Two men knead a mound of green meat with their bare hands as if it were clay; strangers huddle together to eat side by s…
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Al Mufti
OLD CITY
12 Via Dolorosa
}02 628 8463; Almufticafe@gmail.com
A spanking two-and-a-half months old at the time of writing, Al Mufti is the cafe to go to. Its founder and manager, Oma…
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Ja’far Sweets Company
OLD CITY
Souq Khan az-Zait
}02 628 3582
Thin and doughy layers of konafah (NIS3) come drenched in a sweet, sticky goo and filled with sugary cream. Widely reput…
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Amigo Emil
OLD CITY
al-Khanqa St.
}02 628 8090
Armed with a staff fluent in English, a cool stone interior with lots of empty space, and a tea room in the back with po…
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Cafe Paradiso
OLD CITY
36 Keren Hayesod St.
}02 563 4805; 2eat.co.il/cafeparadiso
It takes coming to a largely kosher country to understand the real power of the historic meat-dairy alliance. If your po…
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Lavan Ba’Cinematheque
OLD CITY
11 Hebron Rd.
}02 673 7393
It’s enough just to look at it: thin roasted asparagus sit between the plate and a bed of polenta, and a baked salmon fi…
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T’mol Shilshom
WEST JERUSALEM
5 Yoel Moshe Solomon St.
}02 623 2758; www.tmol-shilshom.co.il
Tucked behind a discreet staircase in the nether reaches of a quiet alley, T’mol Shilshom, with its rustic brick interio…
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Hummus Ben-Sira
WEST JERUSALEM
3 Ben-Sira St.
}054 229 6765
It’s little more than a hole in a slightly-more-western wall, but Hummus Ben-Sira serves what may be the best chickpea p…
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Marakiya
WEST JERUSALEM
4 Koresh St.
}02 625 7797
Marakiya may mean“Soup Kitchen,” but this low-key cafe is more for those who make a fashion statement out of being looki…
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Babette
WEST JERUSALEM
16 Shamai St.
}02 615 7004; www.2eat.co.il/babette
A pair of bright yellow shutters is the only exterior sign that this place serves the cheeriest waffles in Jerusalem and…
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Alma
WEST JERUSALEM
16 Rivlin St.
}02 502 0069; www.alma-restaurant.co.il
Alma serves top-notch Israeli standards at the foot of the ever-mobbed Rivlin St. Rustic brick arches and a large chalkb…
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Eucalyptus
WEST JERUSALEM
14 Hativat Yerushalayim
}02 624 4331
The type of restaurant that could only exist in Jerusalem, Eucalyptus exclusively serves dishes mentioned in the Bible—j…
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Azura
WEST JERUSALEM
8 Mahane Yehuda St.
}02 623 5204
Maybe it’s the old Jewish men playing backgammon and smoking argilah in the building next door; maybe it’s the fact that…
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Pasta Basta
WEST JERUSALEM
8 HaTut St.
}077 540 4633; www.2eat.co.il/pasta-basta
Set in the busiest part of the Mahane Yehuda market’s indoor section, Pasta Basta offers primetime viewing of the crazy …
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Coffee Mill
WEST JERUSALEM
23 Emek Refa’im
}02 566 1665
Of the slew of cafes flanking the German Colony, Coffee Mill might just feel the most like home. The founders, who moved…
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Ikermewli
EAST JERUSALEM
21 HaNevi’im St.
}02 626 1658
At Ikermewli—also the name of the family that owns and runs the restaurant—hummus is baptized in a dish brimming with ol…
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Askadinya
EAST JERUSALEM
11 Shimon HaTsadik
}02 532 4590
A huge tree grows right next to the register at this simple and elegant Italian trattoria that’s become a quiet spot for…
Green Door Pizza Bakery
OLD CITY
Between al-Wad, Sheih Reihan St., and Risas St.
}02 627 6171
Arabic pizza combines some of the most profound things humans have ever created—the hamburger, the omelette, and the piz…
Abu Shukri
OLD CITY
Al-Wad
}02 627 1538
Abu Shukri is perhaps the only restaurant that has managed to make it with the tourist crowd despite having a menu that …
Nazmi
OLD CITY
Souq el-Khawajat
Considering its inconspicuous streetside slop-stop status, Nazmi probably has the best falafel sandwich in the area. Sit…

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