Nablus is known throughout history for fighting off invaders. Heavily affected by shifting balances of power from the Byzantines to the Brits, Nablus was committed to each major intifada but today is more famous for its bustling commercial life: it’s home to the Palestinian Stock Exchange and a seemingly endless souq that might seem never-ending to untrained eyes. However, it is also a place of devastating unemployment in refugee camps, a problem which some have ascribed to the checkpoints just outside the city. The major checkpoint Huwwarawas recently disabled, meaning that travel between Nablus and Ramallah is now unrestricted.

Nablus is not a place accustomed to tourism; Jacob’s Well and Joseph’s Tomb are the only two religiously significant sights here, and Tell Balata is one of the few places of historical interest. As such, locals are fascinated by people who are visibly foreign, and kids will often stare at or shout greetings to the tourists they see. Older residents will sometimes take you on short tours or invite you for a cup of tea; these experiences can be rewarding, though, as with the rest of the West Bank, they almost always have a political dimension. Be careful what you say, but also be sure to listen.