Even though this is the childhood home of the possible Son of God and his adoptive family, don’t expect a Christmas-card picture of pastoral churches and rolling fields dotted with grazing livestock. A center of Arab life in the Galilee, Nazareth (al-Nassra in Arabic, Natzeret in Hebrew) is gritty and commercial: devotees fill the quiet churches as droves of automobiles outside barrel through orange-coned construction.

Tour guides like to tell a story about how the roads of Nazareth’s Old City were made by following a donkey’s path as it wandered through the hills. After stepping into the Old City, you’ll realize just how feasible that story is. But after a day of wandering around lost, you will suddenly, with a huff of pride, we imagine, realize you’ve come to know your way around this Diagon Alley. Just like in the wizarding world, it’s best to be fully cloaked—visitors (women especially) should dress modestly to enter churches and avoid harassment on the streets. Though the city is only 30% Christian, expect the city to be pretty much shut down on Sundays.