Every aspect of Palestinian life is on display in Ramallah, the cultural and political capital of Palestine. Students discuss current events in the cafes of Birzeit University, working-class Palestinians sit in all-male cafes off Main St. devoting full days to argilah and idle chatter, the children of the landed class flit from restaurant to bar, and refugees reside in camps outside of the center of town. High in the mountains, Ramallah was traditionally a vacation spot before that whole“constant violent unrest in the Middle East” thing began in the 20th century. The city has since become the center for Palestinian activism: the nearby university is a hub for student protest, and many peace activists base their efforts here.

Ramallah is also home to Palestinian culture, one of the few places where theater groups and art galleries have succeeded in obtaining funding. International and Palestinian art festivals, academic colloquia, and theater events are frequent, especially during the summer. While many women adhere strictly to Islamic law, there is also a large population of more self-determined (often secular) women who go to college and have careers. Conversations everywhere buzz with politics and current events, and even the most apathetic tourist may find it impossible to avoid taking a stance when approached by everyone from taxi drivers to expats.