A Shakespearean Take on Sevilliano Nightlife

@AustinEder    Ataranza in Seville at 9pm.


Ataranza in Seville at 9pm.

If Sevilliano nightlife were a Shakespeare play, here’s what the different components of the plot would look like:

  1. The Exposition: Botillo. If you’ve seen empty liter-sized soda bottles floating on or near the Guadalquivir, there’s a high probability that they’re remnants from a Sevillian pregame ritual called botillo. Popular among students, botillo consists of gathering together around a bottle of soda mixed with hard liquor on the banks of the Guadilquivir. Sevilliano police have cracked down on the practice in recent years, but it remains a popular weekend activity to this day.

  2. Rising Action: A long dinner at or near the bank of the river. Calle Betis in Triana is especially popular as a post-botillo, pre-drinks destination among residents of Los Robles, a less tourist-heavy, less picturesque barrio just south of Triana.

  3. The Climax: Bar-hopping. On a given evening, it’s typical to hit three, maybe four bars, usually in the same plaza or collection of plazas. Popular areas for bar-hopping include La Alameda de Hercules, located in Feria; Plaza de la Alfalfa, on the border between Alfalfa and Santa Catalina; Calle Betis and Paseo de Cristóbal Colón, which run parallel to one another split by the Guadalquivir and Jardines de Rafael Montesinos; and Plaza de la Encarnación, located in Casco Antiguo. Calle Betis (and nearby Calle Pureza, home to several flamenco shows) and Paseo de Cristóbal Colón tend to cater to wealthier clients—young professionals who either work locally or are in town on holiday, whereas Alameda and Alfalfa appeal more to students and artistic types.

  4. Falling Action: Clubbing. Seville’s clubbing scene is concentrated on the eastern bank of the Guadilquivir between Puente de San Telmo to the south and Puente del Cristo de la Expiración to the north. Join in on any hostel-organized pub crawl and there’s a good chance you’ll end up at Uthopia, located in Plaza de la Legión, or Manhattan Seville River Bar, which hosts live DJs every weekend.

  5. The Conclusion: More food. Doner kebabs, patatas piled high with toppings, churros y chocolate—Seville’s got no shortage of carb-loaded foods sure to soak up whatever’s left in your system. Many restaurants in the aforementioned areas stay open late on weekends; however, don’t count on being able to catch a bite at 4am on a Tuesday on the outskirts of the city.